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In high-speed maritime operations, the broaching phenomenon can pose a significant risk when navigating in following/quartering seas. The occurrence of this phenomenon can result in a violent yaw motion, regardless of the steering effort,…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…
Bore-bore capture occurs when a faster moving bore captures a slower moving bore whilst both are propagating shoreward in the surf or swash zones. This phenomenon occurs frequently on natural beaches, but has not yet been quantified in the…
Correct prediction of particle transport by surface waves is crucial in many practical applications such as search and rescue or salvage operations and pollution tracking and clean-up efforts. Recent results have indicated transport by…
The issue of accounting of the wave breaking phenomenon in direct numerical simulations of oceanic waves is discussed. It is emphasized that this problem is crucial for the deterministic description of waves, and also for the dynamical…
Freak waves are very large, rare events in a random ocean wave train. Here we study the numerical generation of freak waves in a random sea state characterized by the JONSWAP power spectrum. We assume, to cubic order in nonlinearity, that…
Considering two-dimensional potential ideal flow with free surface and finite depth, we study the dynamics of small-amplitude and short-wavelength wavetrains propagating on the background of a steepening nonlinear wave. This can be seen as…
This paper deals with the dead-water phenomenon, which occurs when a ship sails in a stratified fluid, and experiences an important drag due to waves below the surface. More generally, we study the generation of internal waves by a…
We study numerically the integrable turbulence developing from strongly nonlinear partially coherent waves, in the framework of the focusing one-dimensional nonlinear Schrodinger equation. We find that shortly after the beginning of motion…
Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…
The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…
Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…
Waves traveling through random media exhibit random focusing that leads to extremely high wave intensities even in the absence of nonlinearities. Although such extreme events are present in a wide variety of physical systems and the…
The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…
The appearence of a new type of fast nonlinear traveling wave states in binary fluid convection with increasing Soret effect is elucidated and the parameter range of their bistability with the common slower ones is evaluated numerically.…
The processes that generate rogue waves on the sea surface remain a mystery. Despite their different natures, the nonlinear bending waves generated in a thin elastic plate share some similarities with waves on the surface of the sea. For…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
Parametric rolling is a parametric excitation phenomenon caused by GM variation in waves. There are a lot of studies of the estimation the conditions, the occurrence, and the amplitude of parametric rolling. On the other hand, there are…