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We show using theory and experiments that a small particle moving along an elastic membrane through a viscous fluid is repelled from the membrane due to hydro-elastic forces. The viscous stress field produces an elastic disturbance leading…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2018-02-23 Bhargav Rallabandi , Naomi Oppenheimer , Matan Yah Ben Zion , Howard A. Stone

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Irina Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky , Tarmo Soomere , Narcisse Zahibo

Planar flows with a free boundary in a partially filled and nonuniformly rotating container, with a strongly noncircular shape of the cross-section, are investigated numerically within the ideal fluid approximation. Vorticity is assumed…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-09 Victor P. Ruban

We simulate the dynamics of a single circle microswimmer exploring a disordered array of fixed obstacles. The interplay of two different types of randomness, quenched disorder and stochastic noise, is investigated to unravel their impact on…

Biological Physics · Physics 2020-07-17 Oleksandr Chepizhko , Thomas Franosch

Rogue waves are known to occur on the ocean surface leading to significant damage to marine installations and compromising ship safety. Understanding the physical mechanisms responsible for extreme wave focusing is crucial in order to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-08-14 Yuchen He , Amin Chabchoub

Irrotational and monochromatic surface gravity waves possess a mean Lagrangian drift which transports mass and enhances mixing in the upper ocean. In the ocean, where many surface waves are present, it is commonly assumed that the mean…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-20 Aidan Blaser , Luc Lenain , Nick Pizzo

A rigorous study is carried out for the randomly forced Burgers equation in the inviscid limit. No closure approximations are made. Instead the probability density functions of velocity and velocity gradient are related to the statistics of…

chao-dyn · Physics 2009-10-31 Weinan E , Eric Vanden Eijnden

We consider the problem of sliding motion of a charge-density-wave subject to static disorder within an elastic medium model. Starting with a field-theoretical formulation, which allows exact disorder averaging, we propose a self-consistent…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2009-10-30 C. R. Werner , U. Eckern

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban

Nonlinear waves are a robust phenomenon observed in complex systems ranging from mechanics to ecology. Fronts are fundamental due to their robustness against perturbations and capacity to propagate one state over another. Controlling and…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2026-04-14 David Pinto-Ramos

Modern, high-fidelity numerical simulations have shown an apparently anomalous result: a longitudinal elastodynamic wave travelling perpendicular to the forcing direction. Numerical simulations, in combination with an analytical model, are…

Applied Physics · Physics 2024-06-24 Peter Huthwaite

The issue of rogue wave lifetimes is addressed in this study, which helps to detail the general picture of this dangerous oceanic phenomenon. The direct numerical simulations of irregular wave ensembles are performed to obtain the complete…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-03-26 Anna Kokorina , Alexey Slunyaev

We derive analytical formulas for the wake and wave drag of a disturbance moving arbitrarily at the air-water interface. We show that, provided a constant velocity is reached in finite time, the unsteady surface displacement converges to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-04-05 Lucas Gierczak , Assil Fadle , Maxence Arutkin , Elie Raphaël , Michael Benzaquen

Motile and driven particles confined in microfluidic channels exhibit interesting emergent behavior from propagating density bands to density shock waves. A deeper understanding of the physical mechanisms responsible for these emergent…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-02-03 Alan Cheng Hou Tsang , Eva Kanso

It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-02-22 M. B. Erdogan , N. Tzirakis , V. Zharnitsky

The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-12-05 Bruno Simon , Christos E. Papoutsellis , Michel Benoit , Marissa L. Yates

An experimental study is reported of the near-critical reflection of internal gravity waves over sloping topography in a stratified fluid. An overturning instability close to the slope and triggering the boundary-mixing process is observed…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 Thierry Dauxois , Anthony Didier , Eric Falcon

Microwave transport experiments have been performed in a quasi-two-dimensional resonator with randomly distributed scatterers, each mimicking an $r^{-2}$ repulsive potential. Analysis of both stationary wave fields and transient transport…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2010-03-09 R. Hoehmann , U. Kuhl , H. -J. Stoeckmann , L. Kaplan , E. J. Heller

In the current work we investigate the propagation of electromagnetic waves in the field of gravitational waves. Starting with simple case of an electromagnetic wave travelling in the field of a plane monochromatic gravitational wave we…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2008-11-26 A. G. Polnarev , D. Baskaran