Related papers: Approximate probability density function for nonli…
Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…
We consider the stability of periodic gravity free-surface water waves traveling downstream at a constant speed over a shear flow of finite depth. In case the free surface is flat, a sharp criterion of linear instability is established for…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
In computing ship motion statistics (e.g., exceeding probability) in an irregular wave field, it is a common practice to represent the irregular waves by a large number of wave groups and compute the motion statistics from the distribution…
We study relativistic particles undergoing surfing acceleration at perpendicular shocks. We assume that particles undergo diffusion in the component of momentum perpendicular to the shock plane due to moderate fluctuations in the shock…
Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to quasi-four wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. Both mechanisms have been acutely studied. The first of the two is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads…
The Advanced Circulation (ADCIRC) and Simulating Nearshore Waves (SWAN) coupled model is modified to include a stochastic term in the shallow water equations that represents random external forces from debris carried by surge and short-term…
The problem of a bouncing ball on a non-planar surface is investigated. We discovered that surface undulation adds a horizontal component to the impact force, which acquires a random character. Some aspects of Brownian motion are found in…
We use the image solution technique to compute the leading order frequency-dependent self-mobility function of a small solid particle moving perpendicular to the surface of a spherical capsule whose membrane possesses shearing and bending…
We study experimentally a a three-dimensional reduced model of a sail shape performing pitching oscillations around a mean incidence angle ($\alpha_{m}$) with respect to an incoming flow in a hydrodynamic channel at a constant velocity…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is…
Using experimental data from three different rogue wave supporting systems, determinism and predictability of the underlying dynamics are evaluated with methods of nonlinear time series analysis. We included original records from the…
We discuss the effects of the directional spreading on the occurrence of extreme wave events. We numerically integrate the envelope equation recently proposed by Trulsen et al., Phys of Fluids 2000, as a weakly nonlinear model for realistic…
The Probability Distribution Function of plasma density fluctuations at the edge of fusion devices is known to be skewed and strongly non-Gaussian. The causes of this peculiar behaviour are, up to now, largely unexplored. On the other hand,…
Although extreme or freak waves are repeatedly measured in the oceans, their origin is largely unknown. The interaction of different water waves is seen as one reason for their emergence. One way to consider nonlinear waves in deep water is…
We perform full-scale numerical simulation of instability of weakly nonlinear waves on the surface of deep fluid. We show that the instability development leads to chaotization and formation of wave turbulence. We study instability both of…
Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…
Parametric rolling is one of the dangerous dynamic phenomena. In order to discuss the safety of a vessel when a dangerous phenomenon occurs, it is important to estimate the probability of certain dynamical behavior of the ship with respect…
We report the experimental observation of intermittency in a regime dominated by random shock waves on the surface of a fluid. We achieved such a nondispersive surface-wave field using a magnetic fluid subjected to a high external magnetic…
The study of crowd dynamics is interesting because of the various self-organization phenomena resulting from the interactions of many pedestrians, which may improve or obstruct their flow. Besides formation of lanes of uniform walking…