English

Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Chaotic Dynamics 2009-11-07 v1 Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics

Abstract

Freak waves are very large, rare events in a random ocean wave train. Here we study the numerical generation of freak waves in a random sea state characterized by the JONSWAP power spectrum. We assume, to cubic order in nonlinearity, that the wave dynamics are governed by the nonlinear Schroedinger (NLS) equation. We identify two parameters in the power spectrum that control the nonlinear dynamics: the Phillips parameter α\alpha and the enhancement coefficient γ\gamma. We discuss how freak waves in a random sea state are more likely to occur for large values of α\alpha and γ\gamma. Our results are supported by extensive numerical simulations of the NLS equation with random initial conditions. Comparison with linear simulations are also reported.

Keywords

Cite

@article{arxiv.nlin/0104055,
  title  = {Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States},
  author = {Miguel Onorato and Alfred R. Osborne and Marina Serio and Serena Bertone},
  journal= {arXiv preprint arXiv:nlin/0104055},
  year   = {2009}
}

Comments

7 pages, 6 figures, to be published in Phys. Rev. Lett

R2 v1 2026-07-22T18:08:02.100Z