Related papers: A Continuous Non-ergodic Theory for the Wave Set-u…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…
This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem…
The evolution of random wave fields on the free surface is a complex process which is not completely understood nowadays. For the sake of simplicity in this study we will restrict our attention to the 2D physical problems only (i.e. 1D wave…
Studies agree on a significant global mean sea level rise in the 20th century and its recent 21st century acceleration in the satellite record. At regional scale, the evolution of sea level probability distributions is often assumed to be…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…
The evaluation and consideration of the mean flow in wave evolution equations are necessary for the accurate prediction of fluid particle trajectories under wave groups, with relevant implications in several domains, from the transport of…
Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…
We adapt the microcanonical framework of equilibrium statistical mechanics to predict the statistics of short waves in inhomogeneous moving media. For steady inhomogeneities and background flow, we compute the wave spectrum at any location…
We review the theory of wave interaction in finite and infinite depth. Both of these strands of water-wave research begin with the deterministic governing equations for water waves, from which simplified equations can be derived to model…
Consider the wave equation with heterogeneous coefficients in the homogenization regime. At large times, the wave interacts in a nontrivial way with the heterogeneities, giving rise to effective dispersive effects. The main achievement of…
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form steep waves,…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
The nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation is widely used as an approximate model for the evolution in time of the water wave envelope. In the context of simulating ocean waves, initial conditions are typically generated from a measured power…
Direct phase-resolved simulations are performed to investigate the propagation and scattering of nonlinear ocean waves in fragmented sea ice. The numerical model solves the full time-dependent equations for nonlinear potential flow coupled…
Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…
The problem of interest in this article are waves on a layer of finite depth governed by the Euler equations in the presence of gravity, surface tension, and vertical electric fields. Perturbation theory is used to identify canonical…