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Related papers: On the Non-Gaussianity of Sea Surface Elevations

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The general equations of motion for ocean dynamics are presented and the waves supported by the (inviscid, unforced) linearized system with respect to a state of rest are derived. The linearized dynamics sustains one zero frequency mode…

Physics Education · Physics 2007-05-23 F. J. Beron-Vera

We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…

Classical Analysis and ODEs · Mathematics 2013-12-06 Armengol Gasull , Anna Geyer

We study non-Gaussian random fields constructed by the selection normal distribution, and we term them selection Gaussian random fields. The selection Gaussian random field can capture skewness, multi-modality, and to some extend heavy…

Methodology · Statistics 2014-02-06 Kjartan Rimstad , Henning Omre

In this paper we consider fundamental processes of the disturbance and propagation of internal gravity waves in the ocean modeled as a vertically stratified, horizontally non-uniform, and non-stationary medium. We develop asymptotic methods…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-08-20 Vitaly V. Bulatov , Yuriy V. Vladimirov

The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-30 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Santu Das , Michael H. Meylan

We derive scaling laws for the steady spectrum of wind excited waves, assuming two inviscid fluids (air and water) and no surface tension, an approximation valid at large speeds. In this limit there exists an unique (small) dimensionless…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-03-16 Yves Pomeau Yves , Martine Le Berre

A two-dimensional water wave system is examined consisting of two discrete incompressible fluid domains separated by a free common interface. In a geophysical context this is a model of an internal wave, formed at a pycnocline or…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-11-09 Alan Compelli , Rossen Ivanov

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

The mathematical models and numerical simulations reported here are motivated by satellite observations of horizontal gradients of sea surface temperature and salinity that are closely coordinated with the slowly varying envelope of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-05-10 Darryl D. Holm , Ruiao Hu , Oliver D. Street

Tsunamis are often generated by a moving sea bottom. This paper deals with the case where the tsunami source is an earthquake. The linearized water-wave equations are solved analytically for various sea bottom motions. Numerical results…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Frédéric Dias

We develop a weakly nonlinear model to study the spatiotemporal manifestation and the dynamical behavior of surface waves in the presence of an underlying interfacial solitary wave in a two-layer fluid system. We show that interfacial…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2019-07-29 Shixiao W. Jiang , Gregor Kovačič , Douglas Zhou

Ocean waves are complex and often turbulent. While most ocean wave interactions are essentially linear, sometimes two or more waves interact in a nonlinear way. For example, two or more waves can interact and yield waves that are much…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2013-01-08 Mark J. Ablowitz , Douglas E. Baldwin

We construct a family of explicit rotational solutions to the nonlinear governing equations for water waves, describing edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach. A detailed analysis of the edge wave dynamics and of the run-up…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-07 Adrian Constantin

A Bayesian treatment of the problem of detecting an unmodelled gravitational wave burst with a global network of gravitational wave observatories reveals that several previously proposed statistics have implicit biases that render them…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2008-11-26 Antony C Searle , Patrick J Sutton , Massimo Tinto , Graham Woan

We analyze the effect of seismic activity on sealevel variations, by computing the time-dependent vertical crustal movement and geoid change due to coseismic deformations and postseismic relaxation effects. Seismic activity can affect both…

Geophysics · Physics 2015-06-26 D. Melini , A. Piersanti

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

In the last two decades there was a lot of progress in understanding the geometry of smooth Gaussian fields. This survey aims to cover one particular line of research: the large scale behaviour of level and excursion sets and their…

Probability · Mathematics 2022-07-28 Dmitry Beliaev

Given the sensitivity of current ground-based Gravitational Wave (GW) detectors, any continuous-wave signal we can realistically expect will be at a level or below the background noise. Hence, any data analysis of detector data will need to…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2011-09-16 Iraj Gholami

Irrotational and monochromatic surface gravity waves possess a mean Lagrangian drift which transports mass and enhances mixing in the upper ocean. In the ocean, where many surface waves are present, it is commonly assumed that the mean…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-20 Aidan Blaser , Luc Lenain , Nick Pizzo

The ability of three wave theories to predict statistics and the crest kinematics of a seaway is quantified. The three wave theories are high-order spectral (HOS) theory, free-surface mapping (FSM), and volume-of-fluid (VOF). Issues…