Related papers: On the Non-Gaussianity of Sea Surface Elevations
The theory of similarity for wind-driven seas is applied to the physical analysis of the problem of sea state bias (SSB) in altimetry measurements. Dimensionless wave steepness and pseudo-age derived from altimetry measurements are expected…
A simple scenario of the formation of geological landscapes is suggested and the respective lattice model is derived. Numerical analysis shows that the arising non-Gaussian surfaces are characterized by the scale-dependent Hurst exponent,…
Ocean buoy data in the form of high frequency multivariate time series are routinely recorded at many locations in the world's oceans. Such data can be used to characterise the ocean wavefield, which is important for numerous socio-economic…
The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…
Here, we show through a statistical analysis that rogue waves in broadband non-breaking seas are spatially asymmetric. In addition to the top-down asymmetry due to nonlinear effects, we show that the two troughs adjacent to the rogue wave…
Simulations are made of a probe particle diffusing through a complex fluid. Probe particle motions are described by the Mori-Zwanzig equation and Mori's orthogonal hierarchy of random forces scheme, subject to the approximation that the…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
This paper is devoted to the stabilization of the water-wave equations with surface tension through of an external pressure acting on a small part of the free surface. It is proved that the energy decays to zero exponentially in time,…
We study the impact of primordial non-Gaussianity generated during inflation on the bias of halos using excursion set theory. We recapture the familiar result that the bias scales as $k^{-2}$ on large scales for local type non-Gaussianity…
We consider the two-dimensional water wave problem in the case where the free interface of the fluid meets a vertical wall at a possibly non-right angle; and where the free interface can be non-$C^1$ with angled crests. We assume that the…
We study focal surfaces of (wave) fronts associated to unbounded principal curvatures near non-degenerate singular points of initial fronts. We give characterizations of singularities of those focal surfaces in terms of types of…
Poisson Surface Reconstruction is a widely-used algorithm for reconstructing a surface from an oriented point cloud. To facilitate applications where only partial surface information is available, or scanning is performed sequentially, a…
In a recent experimental breakthrough, Hersen et al. [1] demonstrated that by changing the agitating medium from air to water, one can obtain, on laboratory scale, dunes that are downsized copies of desert dunes, thereby overcoming a major…
We present numerical studies of wetting on various topographic substrates, including random topographies. We find good agreement with recent predictions based on an analytical interface-displacement-type theory \cite{Herminghaus2012,…
Fluidisation is the process by which the weight of a bed of particles is supported by a gas flow passing through it from below. When fluidised materials flow down an incline, the dynamics of the motion differ from their non-fluidised…
Arctic coastal morphology is governed by multiple factors, many of which are affected by climatological changes. As the season length for shorefast ice decreases and temperatures warm permafrost soils, coastlines are more susceptible to…
A figure, taken from a science literacy test, illustrates the distribution of water across various locations on Earth, represented as though the entire volume is contained in 100 buckets. Using this figure , and other basic, readily…
We study the two dimensional water waves problem with surface tension in the case when there is a non-zero contact angle between the free surface and the bottom. In the presence of surface tension, dissipations take place at the contact…
Boundary layer processes drive the air-sea exchange of momentum, heat, and moisture that powers and shapes hurricanes. The height of the boundary layer is a critical parameter in engineering and meteorological models of hurricane wind…
Gaussian processes are ubiquitous in nature and engineering. A case in point is a class of neural networks in the infinite-width limit, whose priors correspond to Gaussian processes. Here we perturbatively extend this correspondence to…