Related papers: On the Non-Gaussianity of Sea Surface Elevations
Intuitively, crest speeds of water waves are assumed to match their phase velocities. However, this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates our study, which presents new insights into the…
Gaussian random fields on finite dimensional smooth manifolds whose variances reach their maximum value at smooth submanifolds are considered. Exact asymptotic behaviors of large excursion probabilities have been evaluated. Vector Gaussian…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
We report direct observations of surface waves from a stereo camera system along with concurrent measurements of wind speed during an expedition across the Southern Ocean in the austral winter aboard South African icebreaker…
An instantaneous sub-surface disturbance in a two-dimensional elastic half-space is considered. The disturbance propagates through the elastic material until it reaches the free surface, after which it propagates out along the surface. In…
We obtain a general solution for the probability density function of wave intensities in non-stationary Wave Turbulence. The solution is expressed in terms of the wave action spectrum evolving according the the wave-kinetic equation. We…
The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…
Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…
Non-Gaussianities of dynamical origin are disentangled from primordial ones using the formalism of large deviation statistics with spherical collapse dynamics. This is achieved by relying on accurate analytical predictions for the one-point…
The purpose of this article is to clarify the Cauchy theory of the water waves equations as well in terms of regularity indexes for the initial conditions as for the smoothness of the bottom of the domain (namely no regularity assumption is…
In a recent paper we described a novel approach to the detection and parameter estimation of a non-Gaussian stochastic background of gravitational waves. In this work we propose an improved version of the detection procedure, preserving…
The physics of swash i.e. a layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken is complicated and intriguing. It includes perplexed hydrodynamic and sediment transport events. In our paper we address to the…
While wave-packet solutions for relativistic wave equations are oftentimes thought to be approximate (paraxial), we demonstrate that there is a family of such solutions, which are exact, by employing a null-plane (light-cone) variables…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…
An interesting recent paper in Nature explores a new method to construct solid bodies rolling along given curves on an inclined plane, based on the Gauss Theorem. The present article complements those examinations with rigorous existence…
Oceanic pressure measurements, even in very deep water, and atmospheric pressure or seismic records, from anywhere on Earth, contain noise with dominant periods between 3 and 10 seconds, that is believed to be excited by ocean surface…
We study water waves propagating over a smooth obstacle in a fluid of varying depth, motivated by the observation that submerged islands in the ocean act as effective lenses that increase the amplitude and destructive power of tsunami waves…
Gaussian random fields pervade all areas of science. However, it is often the departures from Gaussianity that carry the crucial signature of the nonlinear mechanisms at the heart of diverse phenomena, ranging from structure formation in…
Sea wave monitoring is key in many applications in oceanography such as the validation of weather and wave models. Conventional in situ solutions are based on moored buoys whose measurements are often recognized as a standard. However,…