Related papers: Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

The results of direct numerical simulation of plane-symmetric turbulence of water waves for potential flows within the framework of conformal variables taking into account low-frequency pumping and high-frequency viscous dissipation are…

Storm surges cause coastal inundations due to the setup of the water surface resulting from atmospheric pressure, surface winds and breaking waves. The latter is particularly difficult to be accounted for. For instance, it was observed that…

Extreme events, such as wave-storms, need to be characterized for coastal infrastructure design purposes. Such description should contain information on both the univariate behaviour and the joint-dependence of storm-variables. These two…

Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…

Accurate mapping of ocean bathymetry is a multi-faceted process, needed for safe and efficient navigation on shipping routes and for predicting tsunami waves. Currently available bathymetry data does not always provide the resolution to…

A defining feature of non-stationary systems is the time dependence of their statistical parameters. Measured time series may exhibit Gaussian statistics on short time horizons, due to the central limit theorem. The sample statistics for…

There is increasing evidence that global warming manifests itself in more frequent warm days and that heat waves will become more frequent. Presently, a formal definition of a heat wave is not agreed upon in the literature. To avoid this…

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

Extreme events are the major weather-related hazard for humanity. It is then of crucial importance to have a good understanding of their statistics and to be able to forecast them. However, lack of sufficient data makes their study…

The aim of this work is the quantification and prediction of rare events characterized by extreme intensity in nonlinear waves with broad spectra. We consider a one-dimensional non- linear model with deep-water waves dispersion relation,…

Saltwater intrusion is a critical challenge to coastal ecosystems, impacting freshwater resources, biogeochemical cycles, and habitat stability. While relevant studies often focus on the long-term trends of salinity, its episodic…

In offshore engineering design, nonlinear wave models are often used to propagate stochastic waves from an input boundary to the location of an offshore structure. Each wave realization is typically characterized by a high-dimensional input…

In numerous applications data are observed at random times and an estimated graph of the spectral density may be relevant for characterizing and explaining phenomena. By using a wavelet analysis, one derives a nonparametric estimator of the…

Quantifying changes in the probability and magnitude of extreme flooding events is key to mitigating their impacts. While hydrodynamic data are inherently spatially dependent, traditional spatial models such as Gaussian processes are poorly…

The exit time statistics of experimental turbulent data is analyzed. By looking at the exit-time moments (Inverse Structure Functions) it is possible to have a direct measurement of scaling properties of the laminar statistics. It turns out…

We give sufficient conditions on the initial data so that a semilinear wave inequality blows-up in finite time. Our method is based on the study of an associated second order differential inequality. The same method is applied to some…

Small islands in the vicinity of the mainland are believed to offer protection from wind and waves and thus coastal communities have been developed in these areas. However, what happens when it comes to tsunamis is not clear. Will these…

In this work we present a further analytical development and a numerical implementation of the recently suggested theoretical model for highly nonlinear potential long-crested water waves, where weak three-dimensional effects are included…

Estimation of the initial state of turbulent channel flow from limited data is investigated using an adjoint-variational approach. The data are generated from a reference direct numerical simulation (DNS) which is sub-sampled at different…

Uniform Shear Flow is a prototype nonequilibrium state admitting detailed study at both the macroscopic and microscopic levels via theory and computer simulation. It is shown that the hydrodynamic equations for this state have a long…