Related papers: Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
This paper presents a novel quantification of the fraction of broken waves (Qb) in natural surf zones using data from seven wave-dominated Australian beaches. Qb is a critical, but rarely quantified, parameter for parametric surf zone…
The extreme characteristics of long wave run-up are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation (Carrier & Greenspan, 1958). Then, using numerical…
We performed high resolution numerical simulations of homogenous and isotropic compressible turbulence, with an average 3D Mach number close to 0.3. We study the statistical properties of intermittency for velocity, density and entropy. For…
The transitional regime of plane channel flow is investigated {above} the transitional point below which turbulence is not sustained, using direct numerical simulation in large domains. Statistics of laminar-turbulent spatio-temporal…
Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…
The evolution of crossing sea states and the emergence of rogue waves in such systems are studied via numerical simulations performed using a higher order spectral method to solve the free surface Euler equations with a flat bottom. Two…
This paper introduces an infinite-dimensional Bayesian framework for acoustic seabed tomography, leveraging wave scattering to simultaneously estimate the seabed and its roughness. Tomography is considered an ill-posed problem where…
The impact of boat traffic on the health of coastal ecosystems is a multi-scale process: from minutes (individual wakes) to days (tidal modulation of sediment transport), to seasons and years (traffic is seasonal). A considerable numerical…
Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…
The nonlinear dynamics of an obliquely oriented wave packet at sea surface is studied both analytically and numerically for various initial parameters of the packet, in connection with the problem of oceanic rogue waves. In the framework of…
The propagation and transformation of water waves over varying bathymetries is a subject of fundamental interest to ocean, coastal and harbor engineers. The specific bathymetry considered in this paper consists of one or two, naturally…
Predicting extreme events in nonlinear dynamical systems is challenging due to a limited understanding of their statistical properties. This study numerically and theoretically investigates the statistical properties of infinite-modal maps…
Estimation of nearshore bathymetry is important for accurate prediction of nearshore wave conditions. However, direct data collection is expensive and time-consuming while accurate airborne lidar-based survey is limited by breaking waves…
Sufficient conditions for wave breaking are found for the short-pulse equation describing wave packets of few cycles on the ultra-short pulse scale. The analysis relies on the method of characteristics and conserved quantities of the…
Recent work has suggested that in highly correlated systems, such as sandpiles, turbulent fluids, ignited trees in forest fires and magnetization in a ferromagnet close to a critical point, the probability distribution of a global quantity…
In environmental science applications, extreme events frequently exhibit a complex spatio-temporal structure, which is difficult to describe flexibly and estimate in a computationally efficient way using state-of-art parametric…
This paper is devoted to the theoretical and numerical investigation of the initial boundary value problem for a system of equations used for the description of waves in coastal areas, namely, the Boussinesq-Abbott system in the presence of…
Turbulence governed by the Navier-Stokes equations shows a tendency to evolve towards a state in which the nonlinearity is diminished. In fully developed turbulence this tendency can be measured by comparing the variance of the nonlinear…
We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…
We study probability distributions of waves of topplings in the Bak-Tang-Wiesenfeld model on hypercubic lattices for dimensions D>=2. Waves represent relaxation processes which do not contain multiple toppling events. We investigate bulk…