Related papers: Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
Motivated by the analysis of extreme rainfall data, we introduce a general Bayesian hierarchical model for estimating the probability distribution of extreme values of intermittent random sequences, a common problem in geophysical and…
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in…
The ocean wave distribution in a specific region of space and time is described by its sea state. Knowledge about the sea states a ship encounters on a journey can be used to assess various parameters of risk and wear associated with the…
We discuss the formation of large amplitude waves for sea states characterized by JONSWAP spectra with random phases. In this context we discuss experimental results performed in one of the largest wave tank facilities in the world. We…
We present a study of the intermittent properties of a shell model of turbulence with unprecedented statistics, about $\sim 10^7$ eddy turn over time, achieved thanks to an implementation on a large-scale parallel GPU factory. This allows…
We investigate how the extreme wave statistics of a windsea is modified by a following swell, by means of laboratory experiments and simulations using a High Order Spectral Method (HOSM) of long-crested sea. The windsea spectrum is kept…
Understanding how statistical equilibrium can occur in out-of-equilibrium systems is of paramount interest, as it would enable the use of statistical mechanics tools to these systems. Here, we report the first experimental evidence of…
Turbulent water motions are important for the exchange of momentum, heat, nutrients, and suspended matter including sediments in the deep-sea that is generally stably stratified in density. To maintain ocean-density stratification, an…
Numerically computed with high accuracy are periodic traveling waves at the free surface of a two dimensional, infinitely deep, and constant vorticity flow of an incompressible inviscid fluid, under gravity, without the effects of surface…
The issue of rogue wave lifetimes is addressed in this study, which helps to detail the general picture of this dangerous oceanic phenomenon. The direct numerical simulations of irregular wave ensembles are performed to obtain the complete…
Coastal flooding drives considerable risks to many communities, but projections of future flood risks are deeply uncertain. The paucity of observations of extreme events often motivates the use of statistical approaches to model the…
Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…
We examine the general question of statistical changes experienced by ensembles of nonlinear random waves propagating in systems ruled by integrable equations. In our study that enters within the framework of integrable turbulence, we…
Measurements of the time of arrival of shock waves from explosions can serve as powerful markers of the evolution of the shock front for determining crucial parameters driving the blast. Using standard theoretical tools and a simple ansatz…
The effect on parametric instability growth of pump wave incoherence is treated by deriving a set of equations governing the space-time evolution of the ensemble-average coupled-mode amplitudes and intensities. Particular attention is paid…
The study of the process of catastrophic tsunami-type waves on the coast makes it possible to determine the destructive force of waves on the coast. In hydrodynamics, the one-dimensional theory of the run-up of non-linear waves on a flat…
This paper presents a sharp approximation of the density of long runs of a random walk conditioned on its end value or by an average of a functions of its summands as their number tends to infinity. The conditioning event is of moderate or…
We consider the statistics of extreme ship motions in a nonlinear irregular wave field. While an accurate computation is possible by using a full Monte-Carlo method to cover all individual wave conditions, the computational cost may become…
Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…
The block maxima approach, which consists of dividing a series of observations into equal sized blocks to extract the block maxima, is commonly used for identifying and modelling extreme events using the generalized extreme value (GEV)…