Related papers: Modeling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully…
The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…
A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…
A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded by a free surface and varying bottom is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the…
Third-order approximate solutions for surface gravity waves in the finite water depth are studied in the context of potential flow theory. This solution provides explicit expressions for the surface elevation, free-surface velocity…
The aim of the present work is to develop a model able to represent the propagation and transformation of waves in nearshore areas. The focus is on the phenomena of wave breaking, shoaling and run-up. These different phenomena are…
The Whitham equation was proposed as an alternate model equation for the simplified description of uni-directional wave motion at the surface of an inviscid fluid. As the Whitham equation incorporates the full linear dispersion relation of…
We present an investigation of the fundamental physical processes involved in deep water wave breaking. Our motivation is to identify the underlying reason causing the deficiency of the eddy viscosity breaking model (EVBM) in predicting…
A new Hamiltonian formulation for the fully nonlinear water-wave problem over variable bathymetry is derived, using an exact, vertical series expansion of the velocity potential, in conjunction with Luke's variational principle. The…
We examine a two dimensional fluid system consisting of a lower medium bounded underneath by a flatbed and an upper medium with a free surface. The two media are separated by a free common interface. The gravity driven surface and internal…
We formulate a depth-averaged non-hydrostatic model to solve wave equations with generation by a moving bottom. This model is built upon the shallow water equations, which are widely used in tsunami wave modelling. An extension leads to two…
A parallelized three-dimensional (3D) boundary element method is used to simulate the interaction between an incoming solitary wave and a 3D submerged horizontal plate under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical setup follows…
Two-dimensional free-surface flow over localised topography is examined with the emphasis on the stability of hydraulic-fall solutions. A Gaussian topography profile is assumed with a positive or negative amplitude modelling a bump or a…
The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…
A reduced dynamical model is derived which describes the interaction of weak inertia-gravity waves with nonlinear vortical motion in the context of rotating shallow-water flow. The formal scaling assumptions are (i) that there is a…
The weakly nonlinear dynamics of the free surface of a dielectric liquid in an electric field directed tangentially to the unperturbed boundary is investigated numerically. Within the framework of the strong field model, when the effects of…
The theory of integrable systems of Hamiltonian PDEs and their near-integrable deformations is used to study evolution equations resulting from vertical-averages of the Euler system for two-layer stratified flows in an infinite 2D channel.…
We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…
A Hamiltonian reduction approach is defined, studied, and finally used to derive asymptotic models of internal wave propagation in density stratified fluids in two-dimensional domains. Beginning with the general Hamiltonian formalism of…
A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded above by a free surface is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the surface…
The propagation of water waves of finite depth and flat bottom is studied in the case when the depth is not small in comparison to the wavelength. This propagation regime is complementary to the long-wave regime described by the famous KdV…