Related papers: Modeling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully…
In this paper we propose a Hamiltonian approach to gapped topological phases on an open surface with boundary. Our setting is an extension of the Levin-Wen model to a 2d graph on the open surface, whose boundary is part of the graph. We…
This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking ($P_b$) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within $\pm$30\% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave…
The paper is devoted to two-phase flow simulations and investigates the ability of a diffusive interface Cahn-Hilliard Volume-of-Fluid model to capture the dynamics of the air-sea interface at geophysically relevant Reynolds numbers. It…
Via a sequence of approximations of the Lagrangian in Hamilton's principle for dispersive nonlinear gravity waves we derive a hierarchy of Hamiltonian models for describing wave-current interaction (WCI) in nonlinear dispersive wave…
We derive a hyperbolic system of equations approximating the two-layer dispersive shallow water model for shear flows recently proposed by Gavrilyuk, Liapidevskii \& Chesnokov (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 808, 2016, pp. 441--468). The use of this…
The hydroelastic response of free floating viscoelastic covers is measured using Faraday waves on the surface of a vertically oscillated fluid layer. We systematically vary the thickness $d$ of the covers to investigate its effect on the…
Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…
The standing surface waves in a rectangular vertically oscillating vessel filled with water (Faraday waves) in the presence of a floating elastic sheet are studied experimentally and theoretically. The threshold amplitude of the instability…
In this paper we study wave breaking in the unidirectional non-local wave model describing the motion of a collision-free plasma in a magnetic field. By analyzing the monotonicity and continuity properties of a system of the Riccati-type…
We derive a new hyperbolic model describing the propagation of internal waves in a stratified shallow water with a non-hydrostatic pressure distribution. The construction of the hyperbolic model is based on the use of additional…
We prove wave breaking --- bounded solutions with unbounded derivatives --- in the nonlinear nonlocal equations which combine the dispersion relation of water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equations, and which generalize the Whitham…
Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…
The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…
Analysing two-dimensional shallow water equations with idealised bottom topographies have many applications in the atmospheric and oceanic sciences; however, restrictive flow pattern assumptions have been made to achieve explicit solutions.…
Wave turbulence and eddy turbulence are the two regimes that we may encounter in nature. The attention of fluid mechanics being mainly focused on incompressible hydrodynamics, it is usually the second regime that is treated in books,…
A deep-sea construction vessel is used to install underwater parts of an off-shore oil drilling platform at the designated locations on the seafloor. By using extended Hamilton's principle, a nonlinear PDE system governing the…
In this paper, we derive asymptotic models for the propagation of two and three-dimensional gravity waves at the free surface and the interface between two layers of immiscible fluids of different densities, over an uneven bottom. We assume…
In this article we consider the numerical modeling and simulation via the phase field approach of two-phase flows of different densities and viscosities in superposed fluid and porous layers. The model consists of the…
Driven by growing momentum in two-dimensional geophysical flow modeling, this paper introduces a general family of "thermal" rotating shallow-water models. The models are capable of accommodating thermodynamic processes, such as those…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…