Related papers: Modeling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully…
Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…
Many equations that arise in a physical context can be posed in the form of a Hamiltonian system, meaning that there is a symplectic structure on an appropriate phase space, and a Hamiltonian functional with respect to which time evolution…
Free surface flow problems including mixing processes in dam break flows and wave breaking phenomena are characterized by large deformation of the free surface. As such, they cannot be easily investigated by analytical and numerical mesh…
We study laminar thin film flows with large distortions in the free surface using the method of averaging across the flow. Two concrete problems are studied: the circular hydraulic jump and the flow down an inclined plane. For the circular…
We derive the John-Sclavounos equations describing the motion of a fluid particle on the sea surface from first principles using Lagrangian and Hamiltonian formalisms applied to the motion of a frictionless particle constrained on an…
By performing two parallel numerical experiments -- solving the dynamical Hamiltonian equations and solving the Hasselmann kinetic equation -- we examined the applicability of the theory of weak turbulence to the description of the time…
A simple generalization of the Swift-Hohenberg equation is proposed as a model for the pattern-forming dynamics of a two-dimensional field with two unstable length scales. The equation is used to study the dynamics of surface waves in a…
A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…
The spatial Dysthe equations describe the envelope evolution of the free-surface and potential of gravity waves in deep waters. Their Hamiltonian structure and new invariants are unveiled by means of a gauge transformation to a new…
We devise a stochastic Hamiltonian formulation of the water wave problem. This stochastic representation is built within the framework of the modelling under location uncertainty. Starting from restriction to the free surface of the general…
In a recent study [DutykhDias2007] we presented a novel visco-potential free surface flows formulation. The governing equations contain local and nonlocal dissipative terms. From physical point of view, local dissipation terms come from…
In this paper we present a novel approach to the geometric formulation of solid and fluid mechanics within the port-Hamiltonian framework, which extends the standard Hamiltonian formulation to non-conservative and open dynamical systems.…
We study wave turbulence in shallow water flows in numerical simulations using two different approximations: the shallow water model, and the Boussinesq model with weak dispersion. The equations for both models were solved using periodic…
The two-dimensional Green-Naghdi (GN) shallow-water model for surface gravity waves is extended to incorporate the arbitrary higher-order dispersive effects. This can be achieved by developing a novel asymptotic analysis applied to the…
In 1967, Whitham proposed a simplified surface water-wave model which combined the full linear dispersion relation of the full Euler equations with a weakly linear approximation. The equation he postulated which is now called the Whitham…
In this report, Mathematical model for generalized nonlinear three dimensional wave breaking equations was de- veloped analytically using fully nonlinear extended Boussinesq equations to encompass rotational dynamics in wave breaking zone.…
The model we deal with is the mathematical model for mutually penetrating continua one of which is the carrying medium obeying the wave equation whereas the other one is the oscillating inclusion described by the equation for oscillators.…
In order to improve the frequency dispersion effects of irrotational shallow water models in coastal oceanography, several full dispersion versions of classical models were formally derived in the literature. The idea, coming from G.…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…