Related papers: Quantifying Bore-bore Capture on Natural Beaches
Determining the mechanism responsible for the plasma heating and particle acceleration is a fundamental problem in the study of the heliosphere. Due to efficient wave-particle interactions of ion-scale waves with charged particles, these…
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form steep waves,…
Solar active regions are associated with Evershed outflows in sunspot penumbrae, moat outflows surrounding sunspots, and extended inflows surrounding active regions. The latter have been identified on established active regions by various…
Advective trapping occurs when solute enters low velocity zones in heterogeneous porous media. Classical local modeling approaches combine the impact of slow advection and diffusion into a hydrodynamic dispersion coefficient and many…
Anderson localization of $p$-polarized waves and the Brewster anomaly phenomenon, which is the delocalization of $p$-polarized waves at a special incident angle, in randomly-stratified anisotropic media are studied theoretically for two…
Particles such as microplastics and phytoplankton suspended in the water column in the natural environment are often subject to the action of surface gravity waves. By modelling such anisotropic particles as small spheroids that slowly…
Turbulence plays a key role in the transport of pebble-sized particles. It also affects the ability of pebbles to be accreted by protoplanets, because it stirs pebbles out of the disk midplane. In addition, turbulence can suppress pebble…
The majority of coastal flows are characterized by turbulence, rendering the application of shallow water equations an inadequate approach for their accurate description. This paper presents a theory for characterizing accelerated coastal…
We investigate how the extreme wave statistics of a windsea is modified by a following swell, by means of laboratory experiments and simulations using a High Order Spectral Method (HOSM) of long-crested sea. The windsea spectrum is kept…
The occurrence of extreme (rogue) waves in the ocean is for the most part still shrouded in mystery, as the rare nature of these events makes them difficult to analyze with traditional methods. Modern data mining and machine learning…
In this paper, we develop an efficient method to evaluate the temporal exceeding probability of ship motion (percentage of time for the ship motion to be above a given high threshold) in an irregular wave field. Our method builds on our…
By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…
The current research focuses on mesoscale dynamics of the atmospheric circulation around an idealized coastal cape representing typical summertime circulation along the northwest coast of the U.S., studied using a mesoscale coupled…
Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…
Hydrodynamic bores are front-type traveling wave solutions to the two-layer free boundary Euler equations in two dimensions. The velocity field in each layer is assumed to be incompressible and irrotational, and it limits to distinct…
Capture-recapture methods aim to estimate the size of a closed population on the basis of multiple incomplete enumerations of individuals. In many applications, the individual probability of being recorded is heterogeneous in the…
A physical model is proposed for the prediction of the non-monotonic variation of the drag coefficient, C_d, with wind speed. The model approximates the effective C_d by the area-weighted averaging of the distinct drag coefficients…
Generated under hurricane conditions, a slip layer composed of foam, bubble emulsion, and spray determines the behavior of the surface drag with wind speed. This study enables us to estimate foam's contribution to this behavior. A…
We explore hydrodynamic interactions between microswimmers and corrugated, or rough, surfaces, as found often in biological systems and microfluidic devices. Using the Lorentz reciprocal theorem for viscous flows we derive exact expressions…
Convective downbursts are known to produce potentially hazardous weather conditions. Currently, severity indices are used to estimate the strength of a potential downburst, but this information does not readily translate to the variables…