Related papers: Quantifying Bore-bore Capture on Natural Beaches
Settlement of marine larvae on a substrate is a fundamental problem of marine life. The probability of settlement is one of the quantitative characteristic of the settlement process. The probability of larval contact with a substrate is the…
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up…
Wave localization is a ubiquitous phenomenon. It refers to situations that transmitted waves in scattering media are trapped in space and remain confined in the vicinity of the initial site until dissipated. Based on a scaling analysis, the…
We report the observation of weak localization of seismic waves in a natural environment. It emerges as a doubling of the seismic energy around the source within a spot of width a wavelength, that is several tens of meters in our case. The…
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in…
A conceptual model relating the whitecap coverage to the bubble plume buoyancy is developed following the observation that the entrained bubble plume buoyancy constitutes a large portion of the breaking wave energy dissipation. The…
When a magnetosheath jet (localized dynamic pressure enhancements) compresses ambient magnetosheath at a (relative) speed faster than the local magnetosonic speed, a bow wave or shock can form ahead of the jet. Such bow waves or shocks were…
A theory is presented for wave-driven propulsion of floating bodies driven into oscillation at the fluid interface. By coupling the equations of motion of the body to a quasi-potential flow model of the fluid, we derive expressions for the…
Microorganisms often encounter strong confinement and complex hydrodynamic flows while navigating their habitats. Combining finite-element methods and stochastic simulations, we study the interplay of active transport and heterogeneous…
Wave breaking is an important process for energy dissipation in the open ocean and coastal seas. It drives beach morphodynamics, controls air-sea interactions, determines when ship and offshore structure operations can occur safely, and…
Dynamic soaring allows seabirds to harvest mechanical energy from vertical wind shear, but field trajectories lack a benchmark for comparing flight performances across species. We derive a reduced lower bound on transport effort from a…
Waves traveling through random media exhibit random focusing that leads to extremely high wave intensities even in the absence of nonlinearities. Although such extreme events are present in a wide variety of physical systems and the…
Dynamics of a charged relativistic particle in a uniform magnetic field and an obliquely propagating electrostatic shock wave is considered. The system is reduced to a two degrees of freedom Hamiltonian system with slow and fast variables.…
Wind-wave interaction involves wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on the turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind and wave loading on structures. Existing research on wind-wave interaction modeling ignores…
Numerically computed with high accuracy are periodic traveling waves at the free surface of a two dimensional, infinitely deep, and constant vorticity flow of an incompressible inviscid fluid, under gravity, without the effects of surface…
This is the first study on the mode localization phenomenon in microbeams due to surface roughness. A new model for microbeams with rough surfaces is developed. The natural frequencies and mode shapes of cantilever, simple supported, and…
Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…
Correct prediction of particle transport by surface waves is crucial in many practical applications such as search and rescue or salvage operations and pollution tracking and clean-up efforts. Recent results have indicated transport by…
We have investigated the dependence of the prograde/retrograde temporary capture of asteroids by a planet on their original heliocentric semimajor axes through analytical arguments and numerical orbital integrations in order to discuss the…
This article introduces a new geophysical theory, in the form of a single simple partial integro-differential equation, to explain how frictional abrasion alone of a stone on a planar beach can lead to the oval shapes observed empirically.…