Related papers: Quantifying Bore-bore Capture on Natural Beaches
The physics of swash i.e. a layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken is complicated and intriguing. It includes perplexed hydrodynamic and sediment transport events. In our paper we address to the…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
The flows in and around sunspots are rich in detail. Starting with the Evershed flow along low-lying flow channels, which are cospatial with the horizontal penumbral magnetic fields, Evershed clouds may continue this motion at the periphery…
The estimation of the maximum wave sunup height is a problem of practical importance. Most of the analytical and numerical studies are limited to a constant slope plain shore and to the classical Nonlinear Shallow Water (NSW) equations.…
We propose a novel method for establishing the convergence rates of solutions to reaction-diffusion equations to traveling waves. The analysis is based on the study of the traveling wave shape defect function introduced in [2]. It turns out…
Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…
Turbulent water motions are important for the exchange of momentum, heat, nutrients, and suspended matter including sediments in the deep-sea that is generally stably stratified in density. To maintain ocean-density stratification, an…
Wind- and current-driven flotsam, oil spills, pollutants, and nutrients, approaching the nearshore will frequently appear to park just beyond the break zone, where waves break. Moreover, the portion of these tracers that beach will do so…
Adiabatic heating of solar wind electrons at the Earth's bow shock and its foreshock region produces transversely anisotropic hot electrons that, in turn, generate intense high-frequency whistler-mode waves. These waves are often detected…
A combined radar remote sensing and in situ data set is used to track packets of nonlinear internal waves as they propagate and shoal across the inner shelf (40m - 9m). The dataset consists of high space-time resolution (5m, 2min) radar…
Oceanic turbulence influences the transport and mixing of freshwater, heat, nutrients, and other biogeochemical tracers. It also has broader implications for oceanic and atmospheric circulations. Tides contribute substantially to the…
We determine distributions and correlation properties of offshore wind speeds and wind speed increments by analyzing wind data sampled with a resolution of one second for 20 months at different heights above sea level in the North Sea.…
Coherent filaments at the ocean surface often appear to be transient watermass boundaries, where currents converge, surfactants accumulate, and frontal structure at depth can possibly delineate enhanced biological activity in the upper…
It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We combine insight from exact solutions of a simplified mathematical model with photographs from observations at the Norwegian coast…
We have shown that the wave scattering by a soliton occurs in a peculiar way. The nonlinear interaction leads to the generation of waves with frequencies that are multiples of the frequency of the incident wave, minus the frequency of the…
The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…
Resonance capture is studied numerically in the three-body problem for arbitrary inclinations. Massless particles are set to drift from outside the 1:5 resonance with a Jupiter-mass planet thereby encountering the web of the planet's…
The effect of radial drift rate on mean motion resonance capture is studied for prograde, polar and retrograde orbits. We employ the numerical framework of our earlier exploration of resonance capture at arbitrary inclination. Randomly…
Unforced shoaling waves experience growth and changes to wave shape. Similarly, wind-forced waves on a flat-bottom likewise experience growth/decay and changes to wave shape. However, the combined effect of shoaling and wind-forcing on wave…
Rip currents pose a significant danger to those who visit beaches, as they can swiftly pull swimmers away from shore. Detecting these currents currently relies on costly equipment and is challenging to implement on a larger scale. The…