Related papers: Quantifying Bore-bore Capture on Natural Beaches
This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking ($P_b$) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within $\pm$30\% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave…
The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the…
This work reports a novel plasma wave observation in the near-Sun solar wind: frequency-dispersed ion acoustic waves. Similar waves were previously reported in association with interplanetary shocks or planetary bow shocks, but the waves…
Time-varying coverage, namely sweep coverage is a recent development in the area of wireless sensor networks, where a small number of mobile sensors sweep or monitor comparatively large number of locations periodically. In this article we…
AIM: Large amplitude narrowband obliquely propagating whistler-mode waves at frequencies of ~0.2 fce (electron cyclotron frequency) are commonly observed at 1 AU, and are most consistent with the whistler heat flux fan instability. We want…
As an example for complex systems with extreme events we investigate ocean wave states exhibiting rogue waves. We present a statistical method of data analysis based on multi-point statistics which for the first time allows grasping extreme…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
Air-sea drag governs the momentum transfer between the atmosphere and the ocean, and remains largely unknown in hurricane winds. We revisit the momentum budget and eddy-covariance methods to estimate the surface drag coefficient in the…
Gravity wave turbulence is studied experimentally in a large wave basin where irregular waves are generated unidirectionally. The role of the basin boundary conditions (absorbing or reflecting) and of the forcing properties are…
The standard technique for very low-frequency gravitational wave detection is mainly based on searching for a specific spatial correlation in the variation of the times of arrival of the radio pulses emitted by millisecond pulsars with…
We use the plasma density based on measurements of the probe-to-spacecraft potential in combination with magnetic field measurements by MAG to study fields and density fluctuations in the solar wind observed by Solar Orbiter during the…
In the stably stratified ocean, small-scale turbulence is important for vertical exchange and hence for the mixing of water masses and suspended matter. To observationally study turbulent motions and the buoyancy- and shear-generators…
The processes that generate rogue waves on the sea surface remain a mystery. Despite their different natures, the nonlinear bending waves generated in a thin elastic plate share some similarities with waves on the surface of the sea. For…
Competition between biological species in marine environments is affected by the motion of the surrounding fluid. An effective 2D compressibility can arise, for example, from the convergence and divergence of water masses at the depth at…
Internal waves shoaling on the continental slope can break and form materially coherent vortices called boluses. These boluses are able to trap and transport material up the continental slope, yet the global extent of bolus transport is…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
Direct numerical simulations are conducted to study the receptivity and transition mechanisms in a solitary wave boundary layer developing over randomly organized wave-like bottom topography. The boundary layer flow shows a selective…
Monin--Obukhov Similarity Theory (MOST), which underpins nearly all bulk estimates of surface fluxes in the atmospheric surface layer, assumes monotonic wind profiles and vertically uniform momentum and heat fluxes. Here, we show that…
Landscapes that are rhythmically dissected by natural drainage channels exist in various geologic and climatic settings. Such landscapes are characterized by a length-scale for the lateral spacing between channels. We observe a small-scale…
High-resolution time series of sunspots have been obtained with the Swedish 1m Solar Telescope between 2003 and 2006 at different locations on the solar disc. Proper motions in seven different active regions have been studied. The analysis…