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Related papers: Quantifying Bore-bore Capture on Natural Beaches

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This paper presents a novel quantification of the fraction of broken waves (Qb) in natural surf zones using data from seven wave-dominated Australian beaches. Qb is a critical, but rarely quantified, parameter for parametric surf zone…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-19 Caio E. Stringari , Hannah E. Power

The broaching that follows the surf-riding is a dangerous phenomenon that can lead to the capsizing of a vessel due to its violent yaw motion. Most of the previous studies on surf-riding phenomena in irregular waves have been conducted by…

Dynamical Systems · Mathematics 2024-01-12 Atsuo Maki , Yuuki Maruyama , Keiji Katsumura , Leo Dostal

Above steep deep-sea topography internal tidal waves may break vigorously. The associated turbulent mixing is important for resuspending matter, bringing it tens of meters away from the seafloor for redistribution. While intense…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-11-15 Hans van Haren

Marine debris pollution is a growing problem impacting aquatic ecosystems, coastal recreation, and human society. Beaches are known to be a sink for debris, and beaching needs to be accounted for in marine debris mass balances. The process…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-01-04 Benjamin Davidson , Jamie Brenner , Nimish Pujara

We report direct observations of surface waves from a stereo camera system along with concurrent measurements of wind speed during an expedition across the Southern Ocean in the austral winter aboard South African icebreaker…

An apparent giant wave event having a maximum trough-to-crest height of 21 metres and a maximum zero-upcrossing period of 27 seconds was recorded by a wave buoy at a nearshore location off the southwestern coast of Australia. It appears as…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-11-03 Adi Kurniawan , Paul H. Taylor , Jana Orszaghova , Hugh Wolgamot , Jeff Hansen

The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2025-08-27 Jie Zhang , Michel Benoit , Saulo Mendes

In wildfires, burning pieces of ember-firebrands-are carried downstream by wind. At the time of landing, these firebrands can start secondary fires far away from the main burning unit. This phenomenon is called spotting and the secondary…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-21 Mohammad Farazmand

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

Ripples are the most fundamental and ubiquitous aeolian bedforms formed on sandy surfaces, but their small size and fast response times make them inherently difficult to measure. However, these attributes also make ripples excellent flow…

High-resolution multispectral satellite imagery was utilized to quantify shoreline recession at eleven beaches around Lake Michigan during a record-setting water level increase between 2013 and 2020. Shoreline changes during this period…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-06-24 Hazem U. Abdelhady , Cary D. Troy , Longhuan Zhu , Pengfei Xue , Guy Meadows , Chin H. Wu

Event cameras are ideal for object tracking applications due to their ability to capture fast-moving objects while mitigating latency and data redundancy. Existing event-based clustering and feature tracking approaches for surveillance and…

Computer Vision and Pattern Recognition · Computer Science 2022-02-10 Stephanie Aelmore , Richard C. Ordonez , Shibin Parameswaran , Justin Mauger

The relationship between UV Bursts and solar surges is complex, with these events sometimes being observed together and sometimes being observed independently. Why this sporadic association exists is unknown, however, it likely relates to…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2024-11-20 C. J. Nelson , D. Calchetti , A. Gandorfer , J. Hirzberger , J. Sinjan , S. K. Solanki , D. Berghmans , H. Strecker , J. Blanco

Many theoretical and experimental studies suggest that range expansions can have severe consequences for the gene pool of the expanding population. Due to strongly enhanced genetic drift at the advancing frontier, neutral and weakly…

Populations and Evolution · Quantitative Biology 2012-04-02 Remi Lehe , Oskar Hallatschek , Luca Peliti

The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-12 Alex Ayet , Bertrand Chapron , Peter Sutherland , Gabriel G. Katul

Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-29 Rui Cao , Enrique M. Padilla , Xu Chen , Adrian H. Callaghan

The process of capture in the coorbital region of a solar system planet is studied. Absolute capture likelihood in the 1:1 resonance is determined by randomly constructed statistical ensembles numbering $7.24\times 10^5$ of massless…

Earth and Planetary Astrophysics · Physics 2017-07-27 Fathi Namouni , Helena Morais

In-situ measurements by several spacecraft have revealed that the solar wind is frequently perturbed by transient structures (magnetic folds, jets, waves, flux-ropes) that propagate rapidly away from the Sun over large distances. Parker…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2021-09-15 R. F. Pinto , N. Poirier , A. P. Rouillard , A. Kouloumvakos , L. Griton , N. Fargette , R. Kieokaew , B. Lavraud , A. S. Brun

Large amplitude whistler waves at frequencies of 0.2 to 0.4 times electron cyclotron frequency are frequently observed in the solar wind. The waves are obliquely propagating close to the resonance cone, with significant electric fields…

Space Physics · Physics 2020-07-22 C. A. Cattell , B. Short , A. W. Breneman , P. Grul

Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the Nonlinear Shallow…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Themistoklis Stefanakis , Frédéric Dias , Denys Dutykh
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