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Unforced shoaling waves experience growth and changes to wave shape. Similarly, wind-forced waves on a flat-bottom likewise experience growth/decay and changes to wave shape. However, the combined effect of shoaling and wind-forcing on wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-07-15 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

Motivated by observations of turbulence in the strongly stratified ocean thermocline, we use direct numerical simulations to investigate the interaction of a sinusoidal shear flow and a large-amplitude internal gravity wave. Despite strong…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-06-22 Christopher J. Howland , John R. Taylor , C. P. Caulfield

Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-03-05 Lloyd Dafydd , Richard Porter

We address ring-shaped surface waves supported by defocusing thermal media with circular cross-section. Such waves exist because of the balance between repulsion from the interface and deflection of light from the bulk medium due to…

Optics · Physics 2009-11-13 Yaroslav V. Kartashov , Victor A. Vysloukh , Lluis Torner

Irrotational and monochromatic surface gravity waves possess a mean Lagrangian drift which transports mass and enhances mixing in the upper ocean. In the ocean, where many surface waves are present, it is commonly assumed that the mean…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-20 Aidan Blaser , Luc Lenain , Nick Pizzo

Intuitively, crest speeds of water waves are assumed to match their phase velocities. However, this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates our study, which presents new insights into the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-07-22 Francesco Fedele , Michael L. Banner , Xavier Barthelemy

Many species of phytoplankton migrate vertically near the surface of the ocean, either in search of light or nutrients. These motile organisms are affected by ocean waves at the surface. We derive a set of wave-averaged equations to…

The interactions between near-inertial waves (NIWs) and submesoscale currents in the surface ocean are challenging to deconvolve due to their overlapping temporal and spatial scales. The frequency of NIW is modulated by the relative…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-02-12 Nihar Paul , Amala Mahadevan

Over a sufficiently long period of time, or from an appropriate distance, the motion of many swimmers can appear smooth, with their trajectories appearing almost ballistic in nature and slowly varying in character. These long-time…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2022-02-08 Benjamin J. Walker , Kenta Ishimoto , Eamonn A. Gaffney , Clément Moreau , Mohit P. Dalwadi

The dynamic and thermal regimes of climate are regulated by an exchange of energy and momentum between the atmosphere and the ocean. The role exerted by surface waves on this interchange is particularly enigmatic. Waves induce turbulence in…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-27 Alberto Alberello , Federico Frascoli , Miguel Onorato , Alessandro Toffoli

Oceanic internal tides and other inertia-gravity waves propagate in an energetic turbulent flow whose lengthscales are similar to the wavelengths. Advection and refraction by this flow cause the scattering of the waves, redistributing their…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-11-14 Miles A. C. Savva , Jacques Vanneste

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Anna Kokorina , Efim Pelinovsky

We study the effect of surface gravity waves on the motion of inertial particles in an incompressible fluid. Using the multiple-scale technique, we perform an analytical calculation which allows us to predict the dynamics of such particles;…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-01-25 G. Boffetta , M. Martins Afonso , A. Mazzino , M. Onorato , F. Santamaria

We investigate the ocean wave field under Hurricane SAM (2021). Whilst measurements of waves under Tropical Cyclones (TCs) are rare, an unusually large number of quality in situ and remote measurements are available in that case. First, we…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-04-23 Xiaolu Zhao , Ludivine Oruba , Danièle Hauser , Biao Zhang , Emmanuel Dormy

We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-11-19 Pablo Gutiérrez , Sébastien Aumaitre

We present laboratory experiments of surface wave turbulence excited by paddles in the deep water regime. The free surface is seeded with buoyant particles that are advected and dispersed by the flow. Positions and velocities of the…

Waves of spanwise velocity imposed at the walls of a plane turbulent channel flow are studied by Direct Numerical Simulations. We consider sinusoidal waves of spanwise velocity which vary in time and are modulated in space along the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-13 M. Quadrio , P. Ricco , C. Viotti

An experimental model of transmission of ocean waves by an ice floe is presented. Thin plastic plates with different material properties and thicknesses are used to model the floe. Regular incident waves with different periods and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-01-20 Luke Bennetts , Alberto Alberello , Michael Meylan , Claudio Cavaliere , Alexander Babanin , Alessandro Toffoli

Effects of spatially varying interfacial parameters on the propagation of surface waves are studied. These variations can arise from inhomogeneities in coverage of surface active substances such as amphiphillic molecules at the fluid/gas…

Condensed Matter · Physics 2009-10-22 T. Chou , David R. Nelson

We investigate numerically the influence of a weak current on wind-generated surface deformations for wind velocity below the onset of regular waves. In that regime, the liquid surface is populated by small disorganised deformations…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-12-09 C. Nove-Josserand , S. Perrard , A. Lozano-Duran , M. Benzaquen , M. Rabaud , F. Moisy
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