Related papers: Observation of surface wave patterns modified by s…
Unlike crystalline solids, liquids lack long-range order, resulting in diffusive shear fluctuations rather than propagating waves. Simulations predict that liquids exhibit a $k$-gap in wave-vector space, where solid-like transverse waves…
We examine the linear stability of a shear flow driven by wind stress at the free surface and rotation at the lower boundary, mimicking oceanic flows influenced by surface winds and rotation of Earth. The linearised eigenvalue problem is…
The problem of tsunami wave shoaling and runup in U-shaped bays (such as fjords) and underwater canyons is studied in the framework of shallow water theory. The wave shoaling in bays, when the depth varies smoothly along the channel axis,…
A combined radar remote sensing and in situ data set is used to track packets of nonlinear internal waves as they propagate and shoal across the inner shelf (40m - 9m). The dataset consists of high space-time resolution (5m, 2min) radar…
In this paper we present an experimental study of the long surface wave instability that can develop when a granular material flows down a rough inclined plane. The threshold and the dispersion relation of the instability are precisely…
Spiral waves in active media react to small perturbations as particle-like objects. Here we apply the asymptotic theory to the interaction of spiral waves with a localized inhomogeneity, which leads to a novel prediction: drift of the…
Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…
We consider one-dimensional model of the interaction between surface and the internal gravity water waves. The internal wave is modeled by its basic form: a non-dispersive field with a horizontal current that is uniform over all depth,…
In this paper, we study the flow physics underlying the recently developed remote sensing capability of detecting oceanic microplastics, which is based on the measurable surface roughness reduction induced by the presence of microplastics…
It has been reported that traveling waves propagate periodically and stably in sub-excitable systems driven by noise [Phys. Rev. Lett. \textbf{88}, 138301 (2002)]. As a further investigation, here we observe different types of traveling…
A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels…
The last decade has seen a significant increase in the number of studies devoted to wave turbulence. Many deal with water waves, as modeling of ocean waves has historically motivated the development of weak turbulence theory, which adresses…
An experimental validation of theoretical models of transmission of regular water waves by large arrays of floating disks is presented. The experiments are conducted in a wave basin. The models are based on combined potential-flow and…
Breaching of earthen or sandy dams/dunes by overtopping flow and waves is a complicated process with strong, unsteady flow, high sediment transport, and rapid bed changes in which the interactions between flow and morphology should not be…
In this paper, we show that Stokes drift may be significantly affected when an incident intermediate or shallow water surface wave travels over a corrugated sea-floor. The underlying mechanism is Bragg resonance -- reflected waves generated…
The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived…
The equations for waves on the surface of an irrotational incompressible fluid are derived in the coordinates of the velocity potential/stream function. The low frequency shallow water approximation for these waves is derived for a varying…
A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…
During motion from deep to shallow water, multiple equilibria may emerge, each with identical drag - a phenomenon that can be explained by a localised amplification of the wave drag near the shallow wave speed. The implication of this is…
We derive transport equations for the propagation of water wave action in the presence of a static, spatially random surface drift. Using the Wigner distribution $\W(\x,\k,t)$ to represent the envelope of the wave amplitude at position $\x$…