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The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…
What do the ocean surface and a swaying flag have in common? Both are deformable surfaces exhibiting chaotic motion when exposed to turbulent flows. Whether such motion is primarily driven by flow turbulence or by nonlinear dynamics…
In this work, we study the nonlinear traveling waves in density stratified fluids with depth varying shear currents. Beginning the formulation of the water-wave problem due to [1], we extend the work of [4] and [18] to examine the interface…
In periodic wave motion, particles beneath the wave undergo a drift in the direction of wave propagation, a phenomenon known as Stokes drift. While extensive research has been conducted on Stokes drift in water wave flows, its counterpart…
This second part of the study develops a geometric and asymptotic description of how surface tension governs the modulational stability of interfacial waves in a two-layer fluid. Extending the analytical framework of Part~I, surface tension…
We report on the experimental observation of waves at a liquid foam surface propagating faster than the bulk shear waves. The existence of such waves has long been debated, but the recent observation of supershear events in a geophysical…
Numerical and observational evidence indicates that, in regions where mixed-layer instability is active, the surface geostrophic velocity is largely induced by surface buoyancy anomalies. Yet, in these regions, the observed surface kinetic…
Here we have considered the effects of shallowness of the domain as well as the air-water free surface on the stratified shear instabilities of the fluid underneath. First, we numerically solve the non-Boussinesq Taylor-Goldstein equation…
We investigate the weakly nonlinear dynamics of transient gravity waves at infinite depth under the influence of a shear current varying linearly with depth. An analytical solution is permitted via integration of the Euler equations.…
We consider a two-layer fluid with a depth-dependent upper-layer current (e.g. a river inflow, an exchange flow in a strait, or a wind-generated current). In the rigid-lid approximation, we find the necessary singular solution of the…
Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
New data was obtained for a frequency band that had not been so well-studied for sea surface probing applications before. During the described 2-weeks sea experiment 1-3 kHz tonal pulses were emitted from a platform, located on the northern…
By "surface waves" one means a special kind of waves that propagate at the interface between two different media. There exists a large variety of such waves, which are interesting on their own, and sometimes have also practical importance…
The purpose of this article is to clarify the Cauchy theory of the water waves equations as well in terms of regularity indexes for the initial conditions as for the smoothness of the bottom of the domain (namely no regularity assumption is…
A scroll wave in a very thin layer of excitable medium is similar to a spiral wave, but its behaviour is affected by the layer geometry. We identify the effect of sharp variations of the layer thickness, which is separate from filament…
Experiments are conducted in a laboratory flume on the propagation of a surface wave against unidirectional flow with a sediment bed. This paper presents the spatial variation of bed forms induced by the wave-blocking phenomenon by a…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
The ability to control the directionality of surface waves by manipulating its polarization has been of great significance for applications in spintronics and polarization-based optics. Surface waves with evanescent tails are found to…
We analytically study a scattering of long linear surface waves on stationary currents in a duct (canal) of constant depth and variable width. It is assumed that the background velocity linearly increases or decreases with the longitudinal…