Related papers: Observation of surface wave patterns modified by s…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
The recent analytical of multi-layer analyses proposed by Sajjadi, Hunt and Drullion (2014) (SHD14) is solved numerically for atmospheric turbulent shear fows blowing over unsteady Stokes water waves, of low to moderate steepness. It is…
Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…
Surface and interfacial weakly-nonlinear ring waves in a two-layer fluid are modelled numerically, within the framework of the recently derived 2+1-dimensional cKdV-type equation. In a case study, we consider concentric waves from a…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…
A new inversion method for determining near-surface shear currents from a measured wave spectrum is introduced. The method is straightforward to implement and starts from the existing state-of-the-art technique of assigning effective depths…
Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…
The currents in the ocean have a serious impact on ocean dynamics, since they affect the transport of mass and thus the distribution of salinity, nutrients and pollutants. In many physically important situations the current depends…
Particles such as microplastics and phytoplankton suspended in the water column in the natural environment are often subject to the action of surface gravity waves. By modelling such anisotropic particles as small spheroids that slowly…
Surface wave patterns are investigated experimentally in a system geometry that has become a paradigm of quantum chaos: the stadium billiard. Linear waves in bounded geometries for which classical ray trajectories are chaotic are known to…
Be it to aerate a glass of wine before tasting, to accelerate a chemical reaction or to cultivate cells in suspension, the "swirling" (or orbital shaking) of a container ensures good mixing and gas exchange in an efficient and simple way.…
Real world water waves often propagate on current. And, the measurement of waves and current is an important task for coastal and marine engineers. Modern marine measurement technologies (i.e. unmanned autonomous vehicles, drones) often…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
Instabilities at interface of two stream granular flows have been reported in recent experiment [1] that breaking waves can form at the interface between two streams of identical grains flowing on an inclined plane downstream of a splitter…
Remotely measuring subsurface water currents from imagery of the wave field has become a much-used technique. We study the biases and errors in such measurements due to spectral leakage, and suggest mitigating procedures. Deviations between…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
We study long surface and internal ring waves propagating in a stratified fluid over a parallel shear flow. The far-field modal and amplitude equations for the ring waves are presented in dimensional form. We re-derive them from the…
Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave…