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Related papers: The pressure distribution in extreme Stokes waves

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In this paper we investigate the qualitative behaviour of the pressure function beneath an extreme Stokes wave over infinite depth. The presence of a stagnation point at the wave-crest of an extreme Stokes wave introduces a number of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-03-23 Tony Lyons

In this paper we consider the dynamic pressure in a deep-water extreme Stokes wave. While the presence of stagnation points introduces a number of mathematical complications, maximum principles are applied to analyse the dynamic pressure in…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-11 Tony Lyons

Periodic water waves of permanent form traveling at constant speed, the so-called Stokes waves, are studied in water of fixed finite depth using methods previously used in water of infinite depth. We apply our methods to waves of varying…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2026-04-01 Eleanor Byrnes , Bernard Deconinck , Anastassiya Semenova

We study the stability of Stokes waves on a free surface of an ideal fluid of infinite depth. For small steepness the modulational instability dominates the dynamics, but its growth rate is vastly surpassed for steeper waves by an…

Stokes wave is a finite amplitude periodic gravity wave propagating with constant velocity in inviscid fluid. Complex analytical structure of Stokes wave is analyzed using a conformal mapping of a free fluid surface of Stokes wave into the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-06-30 Pavel M. Lushnikov

A Stokes wave is a traveling free-surface periodic water wave that is constant in the direction transverse to the direction of propagation. In 1981 McLean discovered via numerical methods that Stokes waves are unstable with respect to…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-02-20 Ryan P. Creedon , Huy Q. Nguyen , Walter A. Strauss

The existence of periodic waves propagating downstream on the surface of a two-dimensional infinitely deep water under gravity is established for a general class of vorticities. When reformulated as an elliptic boundary value problem in a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-12-02 Vera Mikyoung Hur

This paper presents a comprehensive analysis of two-dimensional water waves characterized by a significant adverse constant vorticity over flows without stagnation points. Surprisingly, we discover qualitative distinctions between this…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-04-09 Evgeniy Lokharu

The well-known Stokes waves refer to periodic traveling waves under the gravity at the free surface of a two dimensional full water wave system. In this paper, we prove that small-amplitude Stokes waves with infinite depth are nonlinearly…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-01-01 Gong Chen , Qingtang Su

Two-dimensional potential flow of the ideal incompressible fluid with free surface and infinite depth can be described by a conformal map of the fluid domain into the complex lower half-plane. Stokes wave is the fully nonlinear gravity wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-03 S. A. Dyachenko , P. M. Lushnikov , A. O. Korotkevich

Complex analytical structure of Stokes wave for two-dimensional potential flow of the ideal incompressible fluid with free surface and infinite depth is analyzed. Stokes wave is the fully nonlinear periodic gravity wave propagating with the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-03 S. A. Dyachenko , P. M. Lushnikov , A. O. Korotkevich

We study the dynamic pressure in an irrotational solitary wave propagating at the surface of water over a flat bed, under the influence of gravity. We consider the nonlinear regime, that is, the case of waves of moderate to large amplitude.…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-01-12 François Genoud

We consider the two-dimensional problem for steady water waves with vorticity on water of finite depth. While neglecting the effects of surface tension we construct connected families of large amplitude periodic waves approaching the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-12-23 Vladimir Kozlov , Evgeniy Lokharu

A new type of steady steep two-dimensional irrotational symmetric periodic gravity waves on inviscid incompressible fluid of infinite depth is revealed. We demonstrate that these waves have sharper crests in comparison with the Stokes waves…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-01-28 Vasyl' Lukomsky , Ivan Gandzha , Dmytro Lukomsky

We study the effect of surface gravity waves on the motion of inertial particles in an incompressible fluid. Using the multiple-scale technique, we perform an analytical calculation which allows us to predict the dynamics of such particles;…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-01-25 G. Boffetta , M. Martins Afonso , A. Mazzino , M. Onorato , F. Santamaria

This paper fully answers a long standing open question concerning the stability/instability of pure gravity periodic traveling water waves -- called Stokes waves -- at the critical Whitham-Benjamin depth $ \mathtt{h}_{\scriptscriptstyle WB}…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-06-26 Massimiliano Berti , Alberto Maspero , Paolo Ventura

Periodic traveling waves are numerically computed in a constant vorticity flow subject to the force of gravity. The Stokes wave problem is formulated via a conformal mapping as a nonlinear pseudo-differential equation, involving a periodic…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-02-22 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur

A Stokes wave is a traveling free-surface periodic water wave that is constant in the direction transverse to the direction of propagation. In 1981 McLean discovered via numerical methods that Stokes waves at infinite depth are unstable…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-12-15 Ryan P. Creedon , Huy Q. Nguyen , W. A. Strauss

In periodic wave motion, particles beneath the wave undergo a drift in the direction of wave propagation, a phenomenon known as Stokes drift. While extensive research has been conducted on Stokes drift in water wave flows, its counterpart…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-18 Luiz P. Palacio , Marcelo V. Flamarion , Tao Gao , Roberto Ribeiro-Jr

By providing mathematical estimates, this paper answers a fundamental question -- "what leads to Stokes drift"? Although overwhelmingly understood for water waves, Stokes drift is a generic mechanism that stems from kinematics and occurs in…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-02-27 Anirban Guha , Akanksha Gupta
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