Related papers: The pressure distribution in extreme Stokes waves
We study two-crested traveling Stokes waves on the surface of an ideal fluid with infinite depth. Following Chen and Saffman (1980), we refer to these waves as class $\mathrm{II}$ Stokes waves. The class $\mathrm{II}$ waves are found from…
While some works have investigated the particle trajectories and stagnation points beneath solitary waves with constant vorticity, little is known about the pressure beneath such waves. To address this gap, we investigate numerically the…
In this paper, we establish the existence of Stokes waves with piecewise smooth vorticity in a two-dimensional, infinitely deep fluid domain. These waves represent traveling water waves propagating over sheared currents in a semi-infinite…
We consider a family of Stokes waves on vorticity flow parameterized by a parameter. For large value of the parameter the Stokes waves approach the Stokes extreme wave. We prove that there are infinitely many subharmonic bifurcation points…
We report on an instability arising when surface gravity waves propagate in a rotating frame. The Stokes drift associated to the uniform wave field, together with global rotation, drives a mean flow in the form of a horizontally invariant…
A new condition for the linear dissipative instability of the strong plane shock wave in an arbitrary medium is obtained. The instability of the shock is realized due to the flow instability behind its front, which is similar to the known…
We investigate how the extreme wave statistics of a windsea is modified by a following swell, by means of laboratory experiments and simulations using a High Order Spectral Method (HOSM) of long-crested sea. The windsea spectrum is kept…
We investigate the interaction of waves with surface flows by considering the full set of conserved quantities, subtle but important surface elevation changes induced by wave packets and by directly considering the necessary forces to…
We experimentally examine a laser-induced underwater shock wave with a special attention to pressure impulse, the time integral of pressure evolution. %total pressure variation associated with the shock wave. Plasma formation, shock-wave…
A stability of nearly limiting Stokes waves to superharmonic perturbations is considered numerically. The new, previously inaccessible branches of superharmonic instability were investigated. Our numerical simulations suggest that…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
In 1880, Stokes famously demonstrated that the singularity that occurs at the crest of the steepest possible water wave in infinite depth must correspond to a corner of $120^\circ$. Here, the complex velocity scales like $f^{1/3}$ where $f$…
The evolution of suspension drops sedimenting under gravity in a viscous fluid close to a vertical wall was studied experimentally and numerically with the use of the point-force model, in the Stokes flow regime. The fluid inside and…
In this paper, we consider a stationary, constant viscosity, incompressible Stokes flow with singular forces along one or several interfaces. Assuming only the jumps of the pressure are present along the interface, we develop a new…
It is proven that small-amplitude steady periodic water waves with infinite depth are unstable with respect to long-wave perturbations. This modulational instability was first observed more than half a century ago by Benjamin and Feir. It…
We consider steady surface waves in an infinitely deep two--dimensional ideal fluid with potential flow, focusing on high-amplitude waves near the steepest wave with a 120 degree corner at the crest. The stability of these solutions with…
We make a consistent derivation, from the governing equations, of the pressure transfer function in the small-amplitude Stokes wave regime and the hydrostatic approximation in the small-amplitude solitary water wave regime, in the presence…
We prove that a Stokes' periodic wave of sufficiently small amplitude, traveling under gravity at the free surface of a two dimensional, infinitely deep, and irrotational flow, is spectrally unstable to slow modulation, rigorously…
We prove local higher-order asymptotics for extreme water waves with vorticity near stagnation points. We obtain that the behaviour of solutions and their regularity depend substantially on the vorticity. In particular, we show that extreme…
Small heavy particles in a fluid flow respond to the flow on a time-scale proportional to their inertia, or Stokes number St. Their behaviour is thought to be gradually modified as St increases. We show, in the steady spatially-periodic…