Related papers: The pressure distribution in extreme Stokes waves
The original investigation of Lamb (1932, {\S}349) for the effect of viscosity on monochromatic surface waves is extended to account for second-order Stokes surface waves on deep water in the presence of surface tension. This extension is…
Finite-amplitude gravity waves at the air-water interface induce net fluid and particle transport, known as Stokes drift. While this mechanism is well understood for steady waves, transport under unsteady, evolving conditions remains poorly…
The kinematic properties of unsteady highly non-linear 3D wave groups have been investigated using a numerical wave tank. Although carrier wave speeds based on zero-crossing analysis remain within +-7% of linear theory predictions, crests…
We study the limiting behavior of large-amplitude standing waves on deep water using high-resolution numerical simulations in double and quadruple precision. While periodic traveling waves approach Stokes's sharply crested extreme wave in…
A linear defect, viz. an elastic string, diffusing on a planar substrate traversed by a travelling wave experiences a drag known as Stokes' drift. In the limit of an infinitely long string, such a mechanism is shown to be characterized by a…
The aim of this note is to examine the efficacy of a recently developed approach to the recovery of nonlinear water waves from pressure measurements at the seabed, by applying it to the celebrated extreme Stokes wave.
The Stokes wave problem in a constant vorticity flow is formulated via a conformal mapping as a modified Babenko equation. The associated linearized operator is self-adjoint, whereby efficiently solved by the Newton-conjugate gradient…
In this paper, we investigate the maximum and minimum of the dynamic pressure in a regular wave train with underlying currents and infinite depth respectively. The result is obtained using maximum principles in combination with exploiting…
A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels…
We consider Stokes' conjecture concerning the shape of the extremal two-dimensional water wave. By new geometric methods including a nonlinear frequency formula, we prove Stokes' conjecture in the original variables. Our results do not rely…
Stokes waves are steady periodic water waves on the free surface of an infinitely deep irrotational two dimensional flow under gravity without surface tension. They can be described in terms of solutions of the Euler-Lagrange equation of a…
Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…
In this study, a new set of fifth-order Stokes wave solutions, incorporating the effects of a linear shear current, is derived by utilizing the perturbation method originally proposed for pure waves that was recently published. The present…
This is a study of singular solutions of the problem of traveling gravity water waves on flows with vorticity. We show that, for a certain class of vorticity functions, a sequence of regular waves converges to an extreme wave with…
Stokes perturbative solution of the nonlinear (boundary value dependent) surface gravity wave problem is known to provide results of reasonable accuracy to engineers in estimating the phase speed and amplitudes of such nonlinear waves. The…
The two-dimensional free-boundary problem of steady periodic waves with vorticity is considered for water of finite depth. We investigate how flows with small-amplitude Stokes waves on the free surface bifurcate from a horizontal parallel…
We consider Stokes water waves on the vorticity flow in a two-dimensional channel of finite depth. In the paper "V.Kozlov, On first subharmonic bifurcations in a branch of Stokes waves, JDE, 2024," it was proved existence of subharmonic…
Stokes drift has been as central to the history of wave theory as it has been distressingly absent from experiment. Neither wave tanks nor experiments in open bodies detect this without nearly canceling "eulerian flows." Acoustic waves have…
We derive the explicit analytic expression for the Stokes' drift in one dimension in the presence of a dichotomic Markov forcing. For small amplitudes of the forcing, the drift is enhanced, but the enhancement is reduced with increasing…
We consider traveling waves on a surface of an ideal fluid of finite depth. The equation describing Stokes waves in conformal variables formulation are referred to as the Babenko equation. We use a Newton-Conjugate-Gradient method to…