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This article describes the fluid dynamics video, "A Numerical Simulation of a Plunging Breaking Wave", which was submitted to the gallery of fluid motion at the 2009 APS/DFD conference. The simulation was of a deep-water plunging breaking…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-14 Paul Adams , Kevin George , Mike Stephens , Kyle A. Brucker , Thomas O'Shea , Douglas Dommermuth

A review of three-dimensional waves on deep-water is presented. Three forms of three dimensionality, namely oblique, forced and spontaneous type, are identified. An alternative formulation for these three-dimensional waves is given through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-09 Shahrdad G. Sajjadi , Stefan C. Mancas , Frederique Drullion

Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-14 V. P. Ruban

The impact of a plunging breaking wave (wavelength approximately 1.3m) on a rigidly mounted rigid cube structure (dimension 0.31m) that is partially submerged is explored through experiments and numerical calculations. The experiments are…

We perform full-scale numerical simulation of instability of weakly nonlinear waves on the surface of deep fluid. We show that the instability development leads to chaotization and formation of wave turbulence. We study instability both of…

Computational Physics · Physics 2022-06-03 A. O. Korotkevich , A. I. Dyachenko , V. E. Zakharov

The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-12-05 Bruno Simon , Christos E. Papoutsellis , Michel Benoit , Marissa L. Yates

In this work we present a further analytical development and a numerical implementation of the recently suggested theoretical model for highly nonlinear potential long-crested water waves, where weak three-dimensional effects are included…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban , Juergen Dreher

This paper is intended to study impact forces of breaking waves on a rigid wall based on a nonlinear potential-flow theory. This is a model problem for some technologically important design issues such as the impact of breaking waves on…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-03-13 Jian-Jun Shu

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-06-09 I. M. Mindlin

Surface and interfacial weakly-nonlinear ring waves in a two-layer fluid are modelled numerically, within the framework of the recently derived 2+1-dimensional cKdV-type equation. In a case study, we consider concentric waves from a…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-08-24 K. R. Khusnutdinova , X. Zhang

This paper describes the results from a numerical estimation of the force exerted by long surface waves on a fixed and partially immersed rectangular structure. The topic is connected with the need of making decisions on the design,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-01-22 Oleg Gusev , Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Leonid Chubarov

This paper generalizes existing approaches for free-surface wave damping via momentum sinks for flow simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equations. It is shown in 2D flow simulations that, to obtain reliable wave damping, the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-05-22 Robinson Peric , Moustafa Abdel-Maksoud

The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-04-06 A. V. Slunyaev , A. V. Kokorina , M. Klein

This paper focus on the theoretical analysis and simulation of electromagnetic wave transforms, which is widely encountered in teaching physics. When the electromagnetic wave is not consistent with the shape of the object, it is often…

Classical Physics · Physics 2022-12-06 Yinpeng Wang

Wave-breaking is studied analytically first and the results are compared with accurate numerical simulations of 3D wave-breaking. We focus on the time dependence of various quantities becoming singular at the onset of breaking. The power…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-13 Y. Pomeau , M. Le Berre , P. Guyenne , S. Grilli

We presented numerical simulation of long waves, interacting with arrays of emergent cylinders inside regularly spaced patches, representing discontinues patchy coastal vegetation. We employed the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive…

Geophysics · Physics 2016-10-04 Amir Zainali , Roberto Marivela , Robert Weiss , Jennifer L. Irish , Yongqian Yang

Tsunami waves induced by landslides are a threat to human activities and safety along coastal areas. In this paper, we characterize experimentally the waves generated by the gravity-driven collapse of a dry granular column into water. Three…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-05-31 Wladimir Sarlin , Cyprien Morize , Alban Sauret , Philippe Gondret

This article introduces a physically realistic model for explaining how electromagnetic waves can be internally generated, propagate and interact in strongly magnetized plasmas or in nuclear magnetic resonance experiments. It studies high…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-09-04 Remi Carles , Christophe Cheverry
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