Related papers: Three-Dimensional Simulations of Deep-Water Breaki…
We investigate the potential and limitations of the wave generation by disturbances moving at the bottom. More precisely, we assume that the wavemaker is composed of an underwater object of a given shape which can be displaced according to…
We study free surface water waves in a 2-D symmetric triangular channel with sides that have a 45o slope. We develop models for small amplitude nonlinear waves, extending earlier studies that have considered the linearized problem. We see…
Tsunamis are often generated by a moving sea bottom. This paper deals with the case where the tsunami source is an earthquake. The linearized water-wave equations are solved analytically for various sea bottom motions. Numerical results…
Laboratory experimental results are presented for nonlinear Internal Solitary Waves (ISW) propagation in deep water configuration with miscible fluids. The results are validated against direct numerical simulations and traveling wave exact…
The nonlinear stage of the modulational (Benjamin - Feir) instability of unidirectional deep water surface gravity waves is simulated numerically by the firth-order nonlinear envelope equations. The conditions of steep and breaking waves…
We study the two-dimensional problem of propagation of linear water waves in deep water in the presence of a submerged body. Under some geometrical requirements, we derive an explicit bound for the solution depending on the domain and the…
An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 1), the dynamics of the three breakers are studied through…
Spiral wave solutions are found in linear and weakly nonlinear irrotational water wave equations. These unsteady spiral waves evolve from suitable initial conditions; they are not induced by external forcing. In the linear case, a long-time…
Triad resonances for gravity waves propagating in opposite direction with respect to uniform current are introduced. They are produced by multivalued and anisotropic dispersion and occur even in deep water. In contrast, existing literature…
Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…
The problem of submarine sediment slide which generates the surface water waves is considered. To simulate numerically the landslide motion it is used the method which permits to take into account detailed rheological properties of slide…
We present an investigation of the fundamental physical processes involved in deep water wave breaking. Our motivation is to identify the underlying reason causing the deficiency of the eddy viscosity breaking model (EVBM) in predicting…
A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…
Following a recent demonstration of stable trapping of floating particles by stationary (monochromatic) structured water waves [Nature 638, 394 (2025)], we report dynamic water-wave tweezers that enable controllable transport of trapped…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
A parallelized three-dimensional (3D) boundary element method is used to simulate the interaction between an incoming solitary wave and a 3D submerged horizontal plate under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical setup follows…
Strongly nonlinear models of internal wave propagation for incompressible stratified Euler fluids are investigated numerically and analytically to determine the evolution of a class of initial conditions of interest in laboratory…
This article concerns the water wave problem in a three-dimensional domain of infinite depth and examines the modulational regime for weakly nonlinear wavetrains. We use the method of normal form transformations near the equilibrium state…