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Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…
Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…
Proper knowledge of velocity is required in accurately determining enormous destructive energy of a landslide. We present the first physics-based general analytical landslide velocity model that incorporates internal deformation and…
In this paper we study the dispersive properties related to a model of peridynamic evolution, governed by a non local initial value problem, in the cases of two and three spatial dimensions. The features of the wave propagation…
We investigate experimentally the early stage of the generation of waves by a turbulent wind at the surface of a viscous liquid. The spatio-temporal structure of the surface deformation is analyzed by the optical method Free Surface…
The response of a semi-infinite ocean to a slowly travelling atmospheric perturbation crossing the coast provides a simple example of the breakdown of nearly geostrophic balance induced by a boundary. We examine this response in the linear…
The present article is devoted to the influence of sediment layers on the process of tsunami generation. The main scope here is to demonstrate and especially quantify the effect of sedimentation on vertical displacements of the seabed due…
Horizontal Lagrangian velocities and accelerations at the surface of steep water-waves are studied by Particle Tracking Velocimetry (PTV) for gradually increasing crest heights up to the inception of a spilling breaker. Localized steep…
Landscapes that are rhythmically dissected by natural drainage channels exist in various geologic and climatic settings. Such landscapes are characterized by a length-scale for the lateral spacing between channels. We observe a small-scale…
Inhomogeneity generated waves, discovered more than a decade ago, play an important role in processes like energy transfer, turbulence generation, heating, etc. To understand the nature of these waves we developed the formalism that looks…
We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…
We present a large-amplitude existence theory for two-dimensional solitary waves propagating through a two layer body of water. The domain of the fluid is bounded below by an impermeable flat ocean floor and above by a free boundary at…
Laboratory experimental results are presented for nonlinear Internal Solitary Waves (ISW) propagation in deep water configuration with miscible fluids. The results are validated against direct numerical simulations and traveling wave exact…
The weakly nonlinear dynamics of the free surface of a dielectric liquid in an electric field directed tangentially to the unperturbed boundary is investigated numerically. Within the framework of the strong field model, when the effects of…
Large sea spray drops - of up to 2mm in diameter - constitute one of the most uncertain factors controlling the intensification of hurricanes and severe storms because their generation mechanisms are not understood. Wave splashing produces…
The general equations of motion for ocean dynamics are presented and the waves supported by the (inviscid, unforced) linearized system with respect to a state of rest are derived. The linearized dynamics sustains one zero frequency mode…
This paper describes the results from a numerical estimation of the force exerted by long surface waves on a fixed and partially immersed rectangular structure. The topic is connected with the need of making decisions on the design,…
A wavelet-like model for distributions of objects in natural and man-made terrestrial environments is developed. The model is constructed in a self-similar fashion, with the sizes, amplitudes, and numbers of objects occurring at a constant…
In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…
Two-dimensional periodic surface waves propagating under the combined influence of gravity and surface tension on water of finite depth are considered. Within the framework of small-amplitude waves, we find the exact solutions of the…