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The viscously dominated, low Reynolds' number dynamics of multi-phase, compacting media can lead to nonlinear, dissipationless/dispersive behavior when viewed appropriately. In these systems, nonlinear self-steepening competes with wave…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2014-01-31 Nicholas K. Lowman , Mark A. Hoefer

For any kind of wave phenomenon one can find ways to derive the respective dispersion relation from experimental observations and measurements. This dispersion relation determines the structure of the wave equation and thus characterizes…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-21 Gerd Leuchs , Mojdeh S. Najafabadi

Motion in a one-dimensional (1D) microfluidic array is simulated. Water droplets, dragged by flowing oil, are arranged in a single row, and due to their hydrodynamic interactions spacing between these droplets oscillates with a wave-like…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-05 Bin Liu , J. Goree , Yan Feng

We derive a new hyperbolic model describing the propagation of internal waves in a stratified shallow water with a non-hydrostatic pressure distribution. The construction of the hyperbolic model is based on the use of additional…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-05-28 Alexander Chesnokov , Valery Liapidevskii

We study the dispersive properties of a linear equation in one spatial dimension which is inspired by models in peridynamics. The interplay between nonlocality and dispersion is analyzed in detail through the study of the asymptotics at low…

We obtain a general solution for the water waves resulting from a general, time-dependent surface pressure distribution, in the presence of a shear current of uniform vorticity beneath the surface, in three dimensions. Linearized governing…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-11-10 Yan Li , Simen Å. Ellingsen

In this chapter, we illustrate the advantage of variational principles for modeling water waves from an elementary practical viewpoint. The method is based on a `relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-16 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-14 V. P. Ruban

The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-04-06 A. V. Slunyaev , A. V. Kokorina , M. Klein

This paper addresses the floating body problem which consists in studying the interaction of surface water waves with a floating body. We propose a new formulation of the water waves problem that can easily be generalized in order to take…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-09-21 David Lannes

We describe and analyze the mean transport due to transient progressive waves, including breaking waves. The waves are packets and are generated with a boundary-forced air-water two-phase Navier Stokes solver. The analysis is done in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-10-02 Juan M. Restrepo , Jorge M. Ramirez

The propagation of wave disturbances over a vertically oscillating liquid may form standing waves, known as Faraday waves. Here we present an alternative description of the generation and evolution of Faraday waves by nonlinear resonant…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-01-04 Usama Kadri

Energy transmission over long distances by waves is a key mechanism for many natural processes. This possibility arises when an inhomogeneous medium is arranged in such a manner that it enables a certain type of wave to propagate with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-05 Semyon Churilov

We develop a theory of turbulence of weak random gravity waves on surface of deep water in which the main nonlinear process at high-frequency part of the spectrum is a nonlocal interaction with a strong low-frequency component. The latter…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-09-05 A. O. Korotkevich , S. V. Nazarenko , Y. Pan , J. Shatah

Oceanic pressure measurements, even in very deep water, and atmospheric pressure or seismic records, from anywhere on Earth, contain noise with dominant periods between 3 and 10 seconds, that is believed to be excited by ocean surface…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-06-11 Fabrice Ardhuin , Thomas H. C. Herbers

Interfering liquid surface waves are generated by electrically driven vertical oscillations of two or more equispaced pins immersed in a liquid (water). The corresponding intensity distribution, resulting from diffraction of monochromatic…

Optics · Physics 2009-11-10 Tarun Kr. Barik , Anushree Roy , Sayan Kar

We introduce and systematically investigate the generation of dispersive shock waves, which arise naturally in physical settings such as optical waveguide arrays and superfluids confined within optical lattices. The underlying physically…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2026-04-13 Su Yang , Sathyanarayanan Chandramouli , Panayotis G. Kevrekidis

We study the behavior of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves traveling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-05-21 David I. Ketcheson , Giovanni Russo

In this paper, we consider a problem inspired by the real-world need to identify the topographical features of ocean basins. Specifically we consider the problem of estimating the bottom impermeable boundary to an inviscid, incompressible,…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-08-22 Vishal Vasan , Manisha , Didier Auroux

Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-06-09 I. M. Mindlin