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We attempt to gain some insight into the modeling of the generation of internal waves produced by submarines traveling in the littoral regions of the ocean with the use of high fidelity numerical simulations. These numerical simulations are…
This paper describes a method for deriving approximate equations for irrotational water waves. The method is based on a 'relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many variables as possible. This formulation is…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
Surface and interfacial weakly-nonlinear ring waves in a two-layer fluid are modelled numerically, within the framework of the recently derived 2+1-dimensional cKdV-type equation. In a case study, we consider concentric waves from a…
Consider a two-dimensional stratified solitary wave propagating through a body of water that is bounded below by an impermeable ocean bed. In this work, we study how such a wave can be reconstructed from data consisting of the wave speed,…
We investigate here the interactions of waves governed by a Boussinesq system with a partially immersed body allowed to move freely in the vertical direction. We show that the whole system of equations can be reduced to a transmission…
Experimental and theoretical studies on wind-wave generation have focused primarily on the air-water interface, where viscous effects are small. Here we characterize the influence of the liquid viscosity on the growth of mechanically…
A three-dimensional model of polydisperse reactive sedimentation is developed by means of a multilayer shallow water approach. The model consists of a variety of solid particles of different sizes and densities, and substrates diluted in…
The currents in the ocean have a serious impact on ocean dynamics, since they affect the transport of mass and thus the distribution of salinity, nutrients and pollutants. In many physically important situations the current depends…
In 1967 D. H. Peregrine proposed a Boussinesq-type model for long waves in shallow waters of varying depth. This prominent paper turned a new leaf in coastal hydrodynamics along with contributions by F. Serre, A. E. Green \& P. M. Naghdi…
In the present study, we investigated the generation phase of laboratory-scale water waves induced by the impulsive motion of a rigid piston, whose maximum velocity $U$ and total stroke $L$ are independently varied, as well as the initial…
We report a special phenomenon: trailing waves. They are generated by the propagation of elastic waves in plates at large frequency-thickness (fd) product. Unlike lamb waves and bulk waves, trailing waves are a list of non-dispersive pulses…
Internal gravity waves are an essential feature of stratified media, such as oceans and atmospheres. To investigate their dynamics, we perform simulations of the forced-dissipated kinetic equation describing the evolution of the energy…
The Oseen problem in a viscous fluid is formulated for studying the transient free-surface and Marangoni waves generated by the impulsive motion of a submerged body beneath a surface with surfactants. Wave asymptotics and wavefronts for…
Modelling sediment transport in environmental turbulent fluids is a challenge. This article develops a sound model of the lateral transport of suspended sediment in environmental fluid flows such as floods and tsunamis. The model is…
In this work we study oceanic waves in a shallow water flow subject to strong wind forcing and rotation, and linearized around a inhomogeneous (non zonal) stationary profile. This extends the study \cite{CGPS}, where the profile was assumed…
Here we investigate the propagation and scattering of surface water waves by arrays of bottom-mounted cylindrical steps. Both periodic and random arrangements of the steps are considered. The wave transmission through the arrays is computed…
While the propagation of tsunamis is well understood and well simulated by numerical models, there are still a number of unanswered questions related to the generation of tsunamis or the subsequent inundation. We review some of the basic…
The standard analytical approach for studying gravity free-surface waves generated by a moving body often relies upon a linearization of the physical geometry, where the body is considered asymptotically small in one or several of its…
We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…