English

Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics 2023-06-26 v1 Applied Physics Fluid Dynamics

Abstract

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and therefore come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly-nonlinear, synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading, and shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

Keywords

Cite

@article{arxiv.2306.13447,
  title  = {Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections},
  author = {Eytan Meisner and Mariano Galvagno and David Andrade and Dan Liberzon and Raphael Stuhlmeier},
  journal= {arXiv preprint arXiv:2306.13447},
  year   = {2023}
}

Comments

31 pages, 8 figures, 5 tables

R2 v1 2026-06-28T11:12:43.445Z