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We derive a simple algebraic form of the nonlinear wavenumber correction of surface gravity waves in deep water, based on temporal measurements of the water surface and the spatial Zakharov equation. This allows us to formulate an…
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…
In this paper, we present a novel approach for the prediction of rogue waves in oceans using statistical machine learning methods. Since the ocean is composed of many wave systems, the change from a bimodal or multimodal directional…
Most prior works studying tidal interactions in tight star/planet or star/star binary systems have employed linear theory of a viscous fluid in a uniformly-rotating two-dimensional spherical shell. However, compact systems may have…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
New data was obtained for a frequency band that had not been so well-studied for sea surface probing applications before. During the described 2-weeks sea experiment 1-3 kHz tonal pulses were emitted from a platform, located on the northern…
In oceanography, modeling wave fields requires the use of statistical tools capable of handling the circular nature of the {data measurements}. An important issue in ocean wave analysis is the study of height and direction waves, being…
We simulate the nonlinear hydrodynamical evolution of tidally-excited inertial waves in convective envelopes of rotating stars and giant planets modelled as spherical shells containing incompressible, viscous and adiabatically-stratified…
Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…
A major challenge in next-generation industrial applications is to improve numerical analysis by quantifying uncertainties in predictions. In this work we present a formulation of a fully nonlinear and dispersive potential flow water wave…
In this paper, we show that a revised convolutional recurrent neural network (CRNN) can decrease, by orders of magnitude, the time needed for the phase-resolved prediction of waves in a spatiotemporal domain of a nonlinear dispersive wave…
This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…
Over the years, the directional distribution functions of wind-generated wave field have been assumed to be unimodal. While details of various functional forms differ, these directional models suggest that waves of all spectral components…
Seasonal forecasting remains challenging due to the inherent chaotic nature of atmospheric dynamics. This paper introduces DeepSeasons, a novel deep learning approach designed to enhance the accuracy and reliability of seasonal forecasts.…
Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
In this paper, a general model of wireless channels is established based on the physics of wave propagation. Then the problems of inverse scattering and channel prediction are formulated as nonlinear filtering problems. The solutions to the…
Dispersive averaging effects are used to show that KdV equation with periodic boundary conditions possesses high frequency solutions which behave nearly linearly. Numerical simulations are presented which indicate high accuracy of this…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…