Related papers: Linear theory of wave generation by a moving botto…
Tsunamis are often generated by a moving sea bottom. This paper deals with the case where the tsunami source is an earthquake. The linearized water-wave equations are solved analytically for various sea bottom motions. Numerical results…
The modeling of tsunami generation is an essential phase in understanding tsunamis. For tsunamis generated by underwater earthquakes, it involves the modeling of the sea bottom motion as well as the resulting motion of the water above it. A…
We report laboratory experiments on surface waves generated in a uniform fluid layer whose bottom undergoes a sudden upward motion. Simultaneous measurements of the free-surface deformation and the fluid velocity field are focused on the…
We investigate the potential and limitations of the wave generation by disturbances moving at the bottom. More precisely, we assume that the wavemaker is composed of an underwater object of a given shape which can be displaced according to…
Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…
Experimental wave generation in channels is usually achieved through wavemakers (moving paddles) acting on the surface of the water. Although practical for engineering purposes, wavemakers have issues: they perform poorly in the generation…
In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…
This paper deals with the dead-water phenomenon, which occurs when a ship sails in a stratified fluid, and experiences an important drag due to waves below the surface. More generally, we study the generation of internal waves by a…
Lee waves generated by stratified flow over rough bottom topography in the ocean extract momentum and energy from the geostrophic flow, causing drag and enhancing turbulence and mixing in the interior ocean when they break. Inviscid linear…
In this paper, we are concerned with deterministic wave generation in a hydrodynamic laboratory. A linear wavemaker theory is developed based on the fully dispersive water wave equations. The governing field equation is the Laplace equation…
We present a novel numerical method for simulating the generation and propagation of surface gravity waves by vertical seabed displacements. The cornerstone of our method is the computation of a time dependent conformal map which…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
Here I present a general formulation of water wave propagation and scattering over topographical bottoms. A simple equation is found and is compared with existing theories. As an application, the theory is extended to the case of water…
We construct a family of explicit rotational solutions to the nonlinear governing equations for water waves, describing edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach. A detailed analysis of the edge wave dynamics and of the run-up…
In this article, we present a predictive model for the amplitude of impulse waves generated by the collapse of a granular column into a water layer. The model, which combines the spreading dynamics of the grains and the wave hydrodynamics…
Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…
The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
The propagation of surface water waves over rough topographical bottoms is investigated by the multiple scattering theory. It is shown that the waves can be localized spatially through the process of multiple scattering and wave…
A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…