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The propagation of wave disturbances over a vertically oscillating liquid may form standing waves, known as Faraday waves. Here we present an alternative description of the generation and evolution of Faraday waves by nonlinear resonant…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-01-04 Usama Kadri

The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-10-08 Kyle A. Brucker , Thomas T. O'Shea , Douglas G. Dommermuth , Paul Adams

We study the two-dimensional problem of propagation of linear water waves in deep water in the presence of a submerged body. Under some geometrical requirements, we derive an explicit bound for the solution depending on the domain and the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2015-06-15 Ilia Kamotski , Vladimir Maz'ya

The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2016-09-08 Narcisse Zahibo , Efim Pelinovsky , Vladimir Golinko , Nataly Osipenko

The analytical study of long wave scattering in a canal with a rapidly varying cross-section is presented. It is assumed that waves propagate on a stationary current with a given flow rate. Due to the fixed flow rate, the current speed is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-19 Semyon Churilov , Andrei Ermakov , Germain Rousseaux , Yury Stepanyants

Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-07-03 Paul A. Hwang , David W. Wang , James Yungel , Robert N. Swift , William B. Krabill

The standing wave solution on an idealized mass spring system can be found using straight forward algebra. The solution is found when this system makes jump rope like rotations around an axis.The standing wave forms a constant shape in a…

Popular Physics · Physics 2009-06-02 Thomas A. Dooling , William D. Brandon

Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-03-05 Lloyd Dafydd , Richard Porter

In this paper we consider two-dimensional, stratified, steady water waves propagating over an impermeable flat bed and with a free surface. The motion is assumed to be driven by capillarity (that is, surface tension) on the surface and a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-11-10 Samuel Walsh

We consider the coupled electromagnetic waves propagating in a waveguide array, which consists of alternating waveguides of positive and negative refraction indexes. Due to zigzag configuration there are interactions between both nearest…

Optics · Physics 2013-05-01 Elena V. Kazantseva , Andrey I. Maimistov

The problem of submarine sediment slide which generates the surface water waves is considered. To simulate numerically the landslide motion it is used the method which permits to take into account detailed rheological properties of slide…

Special features of surface gravity waves in deep fluid flow with constant vertical shear of velocity is studied. It is found that the mean flow velocity shear leads to non-trivial modification of surface gravity wave modes dispersive…

Astrophysics · Physics 2016-08-30 G. Gogoberidze , L. Samushia , G. D. Chagelishvili , J. G. Lominadze , W. Horton

High-order wave-making theories are becoming available but are limited to certain ranges of waves and wavemaker types in their applicability. Alternatively, machine learning can be considered to find nonlinear functional relationships.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-24 Yulin Xie , Xizeng Zhao

The general equations of motion for ocean dynamics are presented and the waves supported by the (inviscid, unforced) linearized system with respect to a state of rest are derived. The linearized dynamics sustains one zero frequency mode…

Physics Education · Physics 2007-05-23 F. J. Beron-Vera

Spreading processes on top of active dynamics provide a novel theoretical framework for capturing emerging collective behavior in living systems. I consider run-and-tumble dynamics coupled with coagulation/decoagulation reactions that lead…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2025-05-29 Matteo Paoluzzi

Over the years, the directional distribution functions of wind-generated wave field have been assumed to be unimodal. While details of various functional forms differ, these directional models suggest that waves of all spectral components…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-20 Paul A. Hwang , David W. Wang , W. Erick Rogers , Robert N. Swift , James Yungel , William B. Krabill

The theory of motion of edges of dispersive shock waves generated after wave breaking of simple waves is developed. It is shown that this motion obeys Hamiltonian mechanics complemented by a Hopf-like equation for evolution of the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2021-02-03 A. M. Kamchatnov

Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-06-09 I. M. Mindlin

A gravitational wave must be nonlinear to be able to transport its own source, that is, energy and momentum. A physical gravitational wave, therefore, cannot be represented by a solution to a linear wave equation. Relying on this property,…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2010-03-02 R. Aldrovandi , J. G. Pereira , Roldao da Rocha , K. H. Vu

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…