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Shallow water waves are a striking example of nonlinear hydrodynamics, giving rise to phenomena such as tsunamis and undular waves. These dynamics are typically studied in hundreds-of-meter-long wave flumes. Here, we demonstrate a…

The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-11-13 Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky , Tarmo Soomere

The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Irina Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky , Tarmo Soomere , Narcisse Zahibo

By using the Hugoniot curve in detonics as a Riemann invariant of a velocity-pressure model, we get a conservative hyperbolic system similar to the Euler equations. The only differences are the larger value of the adiabatic constant (=…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-05-20 Alain-Yves Le Roux

Considered here are Boussinesq systems of equations of surface water wave theory over a variable bottom. A simplified such Boussinesq system is derived and solved numerically by the standard Galerkin-finite element method. We study by…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-09-15 Dimitrios Mitsotakis

In this Letter, we experimentally investigate the collapse of initially dry granular media into water and the subsequent impulse waves. We systematically characterize the influence of the slope angle and the granular material on the initial…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-02-28 Sylvain Viroulet , Alban Sauret , Olivier Kimmoun

Given a distribution of earthquake-induced seafloor elevations, we present a method to compute the probability of the resulting tsunamis reaching a certain size on shore. Instead of sampling, the proposed method relies on optimization to…

Geophysics · Physics 2023-07-05 Shanyin Tong , Eric Vanden-Eijnden , Georg Stadler

The problem of tsunami wave shoaling and runup in U-shaped bays (such as fjords) and underwater canyons is studied in the framework of shallow water theory. The wave shoaling in bays, when the depth varies smoothly along the channel axis,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-05-18 Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

Ocean waves are complex and often turbulent. While most ocean wave interactions are essentially linear, sometimes two or more waves interact in a nonlinear way. For example, two or more waves can interact and yield waves that are much…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2013-01-08 Mark J. Ablowitz , Douglas E. Baldwin

Simulations of turbulent flows in 3D are one of the most expensive simulations in computational fluid dynamics (CFD). Many works have been written on surrogate models to replace numerical solvers for fluid flows with faster, learned,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-03-18 Marten Lienen , David Lüdke , Jan Hansen-Palmus , Stephan Günnemann

Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-15 Tianyi Li , Anqing Xuan , Lian Shen

Three dimensional nonlinear wave interactions have been analytically described. The procedure under interest can be applied to three dimensional quasilinear systems of first order, whose hydrodynamic reductions are homogeneous…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2016-12-02 C. Curró , N. Manganaro , M. V. Pavlov

We present a novel meshless tsunami propagation and inundation model. We discretize the nonlinear shallow-water equations using a well-balanced scheme relying on radial basis function based finite differences. The inundation model relies on…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-05-09 Rüdiger Brecht , Alexander Bihlo , Scott MacLachlan , Jörn Behrens

The interaction of waves with structural barriers such as dams breaking plays a critical role in flood defense and tsunami disasters. In this work, we explore the dynamic changes in wave surfaces impacting various structural shapes, e.g.,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-10-28 Zhaoyang Mul , Aoming Liang , Mingming Ge , Dashuai Chen , Dixia Fan , Minyi Xu

To analyze seismic wave propagation in geological structures, it is possible to consider various numerical approaches: the finite difference method, the spectral element method, the boundary element method, the finite element method, the…

Geophysics · Physics 2011-08-18 Jean-François Semblat

Modeling the subgrid-scale dynamics of reduced models is a long standing open problem that finds application in ocean, atmosphere and climate predictions where direct numerical simulation (DNS) is impossible. While neural networks (NNs)…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2021-11-30 Hugo Frezat , Julien Le Sommer , Ronan Fablet , Guillaume Balarac , Redouane Lguensat

While linear systems are well-understood, no explicit solution for general nonlinear systems exists. A classical approach to make the understanding of linear system available in the nonlinear setting is to represent a nonlinear system by a…

Dynamical Systems · Mathematics 2024-12-31 Thomas Breunung , Florian Kogelbauer

Boulders are an important coastal hazard event deposit because they can only be moved by tsunamis and storms. However, storms and tsunami are competing processes for coastal change along many shorelines. Therefore, distinguishing the…

Geophysics · Physics 2018-03-14 Robert Weiss , Alex Sheremet

Oceanic pressure measurements, even in very deep water, and atmospheric pressure or seismic records, from anywhere on Earth, contain noise with dominant periods between 3 and 10 seconds, that is believed to be excited by ocean surface…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-06-11 Fabrice Ardhuin , Thomas H. C. Herbers

Modelling sediment transport in environmental turbulent fluids is a challenge. This article develops a sound model of the lateral transport of suspended sediment in environmental fluid flows such as floods and tsunamis. The model is…

Dynamical Systems · Mathematics 2014-07-08 Meng Cao , A. J. Roberts