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In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation…

Physics Education · Physics 2009-11-11 O. Helene , M. T. Yamashita

The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2009-11-11 I. Didenkulova , N. Zahibo , A. Kurkin , B. Levin , E. Pelinovsky , T. Soomere

The generation of a tsunami wave by an aerial landslide is investigated through model laboratory experiments. We examine the collapse of an initially dry column of grains into a shallow water layer and the subsequent generation of waves.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-11-19 M. Robbe-Saule , C. Morize , R. Henaff , Y. Bertho , A. Sauret , P. Gondret

The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-10-08 Kyle A. Brucker , Thomas T. O'Shea , Douglas G. Dommermuth , Paul Adams

We study the propagation of two-dimensional tsunami waves triggered by a seaquake in the open sea in the presence of underlying wind-generated currents, corresponding to background flows of constant vorticity. A suitable scaling of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-02-15 Frederick Moscatelli

Tsunami waves induced by landslides are a threat to human activities and safety along coastal areas. In this paper, we characterize experimentally the waves generated by the gravity-driven collapse of a dry granular column into water. Three…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-05-31 Wladimir Sarlin , Cyprien Morize , Alban Sauret , Philippe Gondret

This paper deals with the dead-water phenomenon, which occurs when a ship sails in a stratified fluid, and experiences an important drag due to waves below the surface. More generally, we study the generation of internal waves by a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-11-18 Vincent Duchene

A plethora of studies in the past decade describe tsunami hazards and study their evolution from the source to the target coastline, but mainly focus on coastal inundation and maximum runup. Nonetheless, anecdotal reports from eyewitnesses,…

Geophysics · Physics 2016-11-15 Roberto Marivela , Robert Weiss , Costas Synolakis

The vast majority of the literature dealing with quantum dynamics is concerned with linear evolution of the wave function or the density matrix. A complete dynamical description requires a full understanding of the evolution of measured…

This paper addresses long waves on the water surface. It is assumed that initially the water surface has not yet been displaced from its mean level, but the velocity field has already become different from zero. This means that the motion…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-09-05 Ilia Mindlin

We describe traveling waves in a basic model for three-dimensional water-wave dynamics in the weakly nonlinear long-wave regime. Small solutions that are periodic in the direction of translation (or orthogonal to it) form an…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2015-06-26 Robert L. Pego , Jose Raul Quintero

In this paper, we want to understand the Proudman resonance. It is a resonant respond in shallow waters of a water body on a traveling atmospheric disturbance when the speed of the disturbance is close to the typical water wave velocity. We…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-09-28 Benjamin Melinand

A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-24 Ilia Mindlin

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban

We investigate the potential and limitations of the wave generation by disturbances moving at the bottom. More precisely, we assume that the wavemaker is composed of an underwater object of a given shape which can be displaced according to…

Classical Physics · Physics 2019-12-16 Hayk Nersisyan , Denys Dutykh , Enrique Zuazua

Multidimensional up-down deconvolution effectively eliminates surface-related multiples from ocean-bottom seismic data. Recently, several down-down deconvolution methods have been introduced as attractive alternatives. Whereas…

Geophysics · Physics 2025-09-17 Kees Wapenaar , Matteo Ravasi , Claudio Bagaini

We use physics-informed neural networks for solving the shallow-water equations for tsunami modeling. Physics-informed neural networks are an optimization based approach for solving differential equations that is completely meshless. This…

Computational Physics · Physics 2024-06-25 Rüdiger Brecht , Elsa Cardoso-Bihlo , Alex Bihlo

Landslides plunging into lakes and reservoirs can result in extreme wave runup at shores. This phenomenon has claimed lives and caused damage to near-shore properties. Landslide tsunamis in lakes are different from typical earthquake…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-04-23 Louis-Alexandre Couston , Chiang C Mei , Mohammad-Reza Alam

We consider a tsunami wave equation with singular coefficients and prove that it has a very weak solution. Moreover, we show the uniqueness results and consistency theorem of the very weak solution with the classical one in some appropriate…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-05-26 Arshyn Altybay , Michael Ruzhansky , Mohammed Elamine Sebih , Niyaz Tokmagambetov

With an increasing emphasis on renewable energy resources, wave power technology is fast becoming a realistic solution. However, the recent tsunami in Japan was a harsh reminder of the ferocity of the ocean. It is known that tsunamis are…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Laura O'Brien , Paul Christodoulides , Emiliano Renzi , Denys Dutykh , Frédéric Dias