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We propose a locally adaptive non-hydrostatic model and apply it to wave propagation generated by a moving bottom. This model is based on the non-hydrostatic extension of the shallow water equations (SWE) with a quadratic pressure relation,…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-05-26 Kemal Firdaus , Jörn Behrens

In the present study, we propose a modified version of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (Saint-Venant or NSWE) for irrotational surface waves in the case when the bottom undergoes some significant variations in space and time. The…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Didier Clamond

This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-12-02 Jinghua Wang

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-02 Etienne Mémin , Long Li , Noé Lahaye , Gilles Tissot , Bertrand Chapron

We derive a new hyperbolic model describing the propagation of internal waves in a stratified shallow water with a non-hydrostatic pressure distribution. The construction of the hyperbolic model is based on the use of additional…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-05-28 Alexander Chesnokov , Valery Liapidevskii

We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-22 Konstantin Ilin

Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-08-19 Dirk Pieter Rijnsdorp , Hugh Wolgamot , Marcel Zijlema

In this paper, we derive asymptotic models for the propagation of two and three-dimensional gravity waves at the free surface and the interface between two layers of immiscible fluids of different densities, over an uneven bottom. We assume…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-11-18 Vincent Duchene

In this paper we apply the approach of formal asymptotic expansions and perturbation theory to derive a new highly nonlinear shallow-water model from the full governing equations for two dimensional incompressible fluid with constant…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-01-17 Yu Liu , Xingxing Liu , Min Li

Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-07-04 Christian Kharif , Malek Abid

Starting from the hydrostatic Boussinesq equations, we derive a time-averaged `hydrostatic wave equation' that describes the propagation of inertia-gravity internal waves through quasi-geostrophic flow. The derivation uses a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-10-11 Gregory L. Wagner , Gwenael Ferrando , William R. Young

This paper presents a novel methodology for the direct numerical modeling and simulation of turbulent flows. The kinetic model equation is firstly extended to turbulent flow with the account of coupled evolution of kinetic, thermal, and…

Computational Physics · Physics 2025-03-11 Xiaojian Yang , Kun Xu

In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…

Geophysics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Sonya Beysel , Nina Shokina

Models for shallow water flow often assume that the lateral velocity is constant over the water height. The recently derived shallow water moment equations are an extension of these standard shallow water equations. The extended models…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-04-03 Rik Verbiest , Julian Koellermeier

Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free-surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of Kennedy et al (2000)'s eddy-viscosity approach originally…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-10-22 Christos E. Papoutsellis , Marissa L. Yates , Bruno Simon , Michel Benoit

We present a novel numerical method for simulating the generation and propagation of surface gravity waves by vertical seabed displacements. The cornerstone of our method is the computation of a time dependent conformal map which…

The turbulent evolution of the shallow water system exhibits asymmetry in vorticity. This emergent phenomenon can be classified as "balanced", that is, it is not due to the inertial-gravity wave modes. The Quasi-Geostrophic (QG) system, the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-04-17 Ryan Shìjié Dù , K. Shafer Smith

A non-hydrostatic depth-averaged model for dry granular flows is proposed, taking into account vertical acceleration. A variable friction coefficient based on the $\mu(I)$ rheology is considered. The model is obtained from an asymptotic…

We report laboratory experiments on surface waves generated in a uniform fluid layer whose bottom undergoes a sudden upward motion. Simultaneous measurements of the free-surface deformation and the fluid velocity field are focused on the…

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