Related papers: Non-Hydrostatic Model for Simulating Moving Bottom…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…
In this study, a numerical model preserving a class of nontrivial steady-state solutions is proposed to predict waves propagation and waves run-up on coastal zones. The numerical model is based on the Saint-Venant system with source terms…
A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded by a free surface and varying bottom is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the…
In this paper we study a shallow water equation derivable using the Boussinesq approximation, which includes as two special cases, one equation discussed by Ablowitz et. al. [Stud. Appl. Math., 53 (1974) 249--315] and one by Hirota and…
In this paper, we want to understand the Proudman resonance. It is a resonant respond in shallow waters of a water body on a traveling atmospheric disturbance when the speed of the disturbance is close to the typical water wave velocity. We…
Originally introduced to describe a transition region in stars, the magnetic rotating shallow water (MRSW) model is now used in many solar physics and geophysical applications. Derived from the 3-D incompressible magnetohydrodynamic system,…
Wave front propagation with non-trivial bottom topography is studied within the formalism of hyperbolic long wave models. Evolution of non-smooth initial data is examined, and in particular the splitting of singular points and their short…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
In this article, we present a predictive model for the amplitude of impulse waves generated by the collapse of a granular column into a water layer. The model, which combines the spreading dynamics of the grains and the wave hydrodynamics…
This study presents key enhancements in hydrodynamic modeling using the strip-based Morison's equation approach to enable rapid simulations of Floating Offshore Wind Turbines (FOWT). The modeling framework employs the relative form of the…
We consider the propagation of surface water waves in a straight planar channel perturbed at the bottom by several thin curved tunnels and wells. We propose a method to construct non reflecting underwater topographies of this type at an…
The rotating shallow water model is a simplification of oceanic and atmospheric general circulation models that are used in many applications such as surge prediction, tsunami tracking and ocean modelling. In this paper we introduce a class…
Shallow Water Moment Equations are reduced-order models for free-surface flows that employ a vertical velocity expansion and derive additional so-called moment equations for the expansion coefficients. Among desirable analytical properties…
Holm (Proc. Roy. Soc 2015) introduced a variational framework for stochastically parametrising unresolved scales of hydrodynamic motion. This variational framework preserves fundamental features of fluid dynamics, such as Kelvin's…
This article is devoted to the proof of the well-posedness of a model describing waves propagating in shallow water in horizontal dimension $d=2$ and in the presence of a fixed partially immersed object. We first show that this…
In offshore engineering design, nonlinear wave models are often used to propagate stochastic waves from an input boundary to the location of an offshore structure. Each wave realization is typically characterized by a high-dimensional input…
The modeling of tsunami generation is an essential phase in understanding tsunamis. For tsunamis generated by underwater earthquakes, it involves the modeling of the sea bottom motion as well as the resulting motion of the water above it. A…
Semi-implicit methods are powerful and efficient tools for the three-dimensional modeling of coastal and oceanic processes. A semi-implicit finite difference method for 3D hydrostatic primitive equations is presented in this paper. The…
In this paper, we investigate the well-posedness of a nonlinear dispersive model with variable coefficients that describes the evolution of surface waves propagating through a one-dimensional shallow water channel of finite length with…