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The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-02-26 Simen Å Ellingsen , Iver Brevik

We study dispersion properties of linear surface gravity waves propagating in an arbitrary direction atop a current profile of depth-varying magnitude using a piecewise linear approximation, and develop a robust numerical framework for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen

Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Rudy Magne , Fabrice Ardhuin

Oceanic waves registered by satellite observations often have curvilinear fronts and propagate over various currents. In this paper, we study long linear and weakly-nonlinear ring waves in a stratified fluid in the presence of a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-04-12 K. R. Khusnutdinova , X. Zhang

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not…

The object of this study is to investigate the effect of viscosity on propagation of free-surface waves in an incompressible viscous fluid layer of arbitrary depth. While we provide a more detailed study of properties of linear surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-09-06 Arash Ghahraman , Gyula Bene

Our aim is to study the effect of a continuous prescribed density variation on the propagation of ocean waves. More precisely, we derive KdV-type shallow water model equations for unidirectional flows along the Equator from the full…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-10-29 Anna Geyer , Ronald Quirchmayr

A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-09 Lili Fan , Ruonan Liu , Hongjun Gao

Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-15 Tianyi Li , Anqing Xuan , Lian Shen

We obtain a general solution for the water waves resulting from a general, time-dependent surface pressure distribution, in the presence of a shear current of uniform vorticity beneath the surface, in three dimensions. Linearized governing…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-11-10 Yan Li , Simen Å. Ellingsen

A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded by a free surface and varying bottom is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-11-09 Alan Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Michail D. Todorov

In this paper we derive a higher-order KdV equation (HKdV) as a model to describe the unidirectional propagation of waves on an internal interface separating two fluid layers of varying densities. Our model incorporates underlying currents…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2025-06-13 David Henry , Rossen I. Ivanov , Zisis N. Sakellaris

A simple analytical model is developed for the current induced by the wind and modified by surface wind-waves in the oceanic surface layer, based on a first-order turbulence closure and including the effect of a vortex force representing…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-12-05 Miguel A. C. Teixeira

We analytically study a scattering of long linear surface waves on stationary currents in a duct (canal) of constant depth and variable width. It is assumed that the background velocity linearly increases or decreases with the longitudinal…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-20 Semyon Churilov , Andrei Ermakov , Yury Stepanyants

Consideration is given to the influence of an underwater landslide on waves at the surface of a shallow body of fluid. The equations of motion which govern the evolution of the barycenter of the landslide mass include various dissipative…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Henrik Kalisch

Propagation of surface waves on a background shear flow with constant vorticity is studied and compared against the case when the background flow is uniform in depth. For a shear flow with the linear vertical profile, the dispersion…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-10-15 Philippe Maïssa , Germain Rousseaux , Yury Stepanyants

We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-08-12 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Eirik Æsøy , Simen Å. Ellingsen

Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-05 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , Jacques Vanneste , William R. Young

The theory of internal waves between two layers of immiscible fluids is important both for its applications in oceanography and engineering, and as a source of interesting mathematical model equations that exhibit nonlinearity and…

Classical Physics · Physics 2007-09-14 Hai Yen Nguyen , Frédéric Dias
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