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Real world water waves often propagate on current. And, the measurement of waves and current is an important task for coastal and marine engineers. Modern marine measurement technologies (i.e. unmanned autonomous vehicles, drones) often…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-31 David M. Kouskoulas , Yaron Toledo

In this chapter we review methods by which near--surface ocean currents can be measured remotely using images of the water surface, as obtained by X-band radar in particular. The presence of a current changes the dispersive behavior of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-05-12 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen

We study here the propagation of long waves in the presence of vorticity. In the irrotational framework, the Green-Naghdi equations (also called Serre or fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations) are the standard model for the propagation of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-12-14 David Lannes , Fabien Marche

Surface and interfacial weakly-nonlinear ring waves in a two-layer fluid are modelled numerically, within the framework of the recently derived 2+1-dimensional cKdV-type equation. In a case study, we consider concentric waves from a…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-08-24 K. R. Khusnutdinova , X. Zhang

We investigate the interaction of waves with surface flows by considering the full set of conserved quantities, subtle but important surface elevation changes induced by wave packets and by directly considering the necessary forces to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-08-26 Clifford Chafin

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

A model for the wave motion of an internal wave in the presence of current in the case of intermediate long wave approximation is studied. The lower layer is considerably deeper, with a higher density than the upper layer. The flat surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-06-04 Joseph Cullen , Rossen Ivanov

Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-09-17 Trygve Halsne , Yan Li

The propagation of water waves of finite depth and flat bottom is studied in the case when the depth is not small in comparison to the wavelength. This propagation regime is complementary to the long-wave regime described by the famous KdV…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2024-05-31 Rossen I. Ivanov

The KdV equation is a model equation for waves at the surface of an inviscid incompressible fluid, and it is well known that the equation describes the evolution of unidirectional waves of small amplitude and long wavelength fairly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-03-31 Mats K. Brun , Henrik Kalisch

We study the waves and wave-making forces acting on ships travelling on currents which vary as a function of depth. Our concern is realism; we consider a real current profile from the Columbia River, and model ships with dimensions and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-04-09 Yan Li , Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen

The paper's main goal is to compare the motion of solitary surface waves resulting from two similar but slightly different approaches. In the first approach, the numerical evolution of soliton surface waves moving over the uneven bottom is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2021-01-19 Anna Karczewska , Piotr Rozmej

We formulate a model of the two-way interactions between surface gravity waves and ocean currents. The model couples the transport of wave action in the four-dimensional (horizontal) position--wavevector phase space with the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-02-26 Jacques Vanneste , William R. Young

The dispersive motion of surface waves is now routinely used to remotely measure the currents close beneath the surface of oceans and other natural flows. The current manifests as wavelength-dependent Doppler shifts in the spatiotemporal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-08-27 Stefan Weichert , Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen

Polymer brushes are increasingly used to tailor surface physicochemistry for various applications such as wetting, adhesion of biological objects, implantable devices, etc. We perform Dissipative Particle Dynamics simulations to study the…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2015-10-01 Sofia Biagi , Lorenzo Rovigatti , Francesco Sciortino , Chaouqi Misbah

This paper is devoted to the derivation and mathematical analysis of a wave-structure interaction problem which can be reduced to a transmission problem for a Boussinesq system. Initial boundary value problems and transmission problems in…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-07-14 D. Bresch , David Lannes , Guy Metivier

Dispersive averaging effects are used to show that KdV equation with periodic boundary conditions possesses high frequency solutions which behave nearly linearly. Numerical simulations are presented which indicate high accuracy of this…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2016-11-25 M. B. Erdogan , N. Tzirakis , V. Zharnitsky

We consider the propagation of surface shear waves in a half-plane, whose shear modulus $\mu(y)$ and density $\rho(y)$ depend continuously on the depth coordinate $y$. The problem amounts to studying the parametric Sturm-Liouville equation…

Classical Analysis and ODEs · Mathematics 2018-10-16 Andrey Sarychev , Alexander Shuvalov , Marco Spadini

The surface current method known in the theory of electromagnetic waves diffraction is generalized to be applied for the problems of diffraction radiation generated by a charged particle moving nearby an ideally-conducting screen in vacuum.…

Accelerator Physics · Physics 2009-11-05 D. V. Karlovets , A. P. Potylitsyn

A nested large-scale wave model that covers most of the Atlantic Ocean and focuses on generating accurate swell conditions for Ireland is presented and validated over the two years 2016 and 2017. The impact of currents is studied using the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-12-01 Clement Calvino , Tomasz Dabrowski , Frederic Dias