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The particle trajectories in irrotational, incompressible and inviscid deep-water surface gravity waves are open, leading to a net drift in the direction of wave propagation commonly referred to as the Stokes Drift, which is responsible for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-09-11 Aidan Blaser , Raphaël Benamran , A. Bia Villas Bôas , Luc Lenain , Nick Pizzo

Finite-amplitude gravity waves at the air-water interface induce net fluid and particle transport, known as Stokes drift. While this mechanism is well understood for steady waves, transport under unsteady, evolving conditions remains poorly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-04-29 Tatsuo Izawa , Giulio Foggi Rota , Alessandro Chiarini , Marco Edoardo Rosti

This paper explores an idealized model of the ocean surface in which widely separated surface-wave packets and point vortices interact in two horizontal dimensions. We start with a Lagrangian which, in its general form, depends on the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-10-19 Nick Pizzo , Rick Salmon

We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-11-19 Pablo Gutiérrez , Sébastien Aumaitre

We consider the case of finite-size spherical particles which are settling under gravity in a homogeneous turbulent background flow. Turbulence is forced with the aid of the random forcing method of Eswaran and Pope [Comput. Fluids,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-01-20 Agathe Chouippe , Markus Uhlmann

Special features of surface gravity waves in deep fluid flow with constant vertical shear of velocity is studied. It is found that the mean flow velocity shear leads to non-trivial modification of surface gravity wave modes dispersive…

Astrophysics · Physics 2016-08-30 G. Gogoberidze , L. Samushia , G. D. Chagelishvili , J. G. Lominadze , W. Horton

A cylindrical container partially filled with a liquid in orbital shaking motion, i.e. in circular translation with fixed orientation with respect to an inertial frame of reference, generates, along with a rotating sloshing wave, a mean…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-16 Julien Bouvard , Wietze Herreman , Frederic Moisy

Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-06-09 I. M. Mindlin

We investigate the interaction of waves with surface flows by considering the full set of conserved quantities, subtle but important surface elevation changes induced by wave packets and by directly considering the necessary forces to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-08-26 Clifford Chafin

Deep ocean acoustics, in the absence of shipping and wildlife, is driven by surface processes. Best understood is the signal generated by non-linear surface wave interactions, the Longuet-Higgins mechanism, which dominates from 0.1 to 10…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-08 Zachary Guralnik , William Farrell , John Bourdelais , Xavier Zabalgogeazcoa

An experimental study of long interfacial gravity waves was conducted in a closed wave tank containing two layers of viscous immiscible fluids. The study focuses on the development in time of the mean particle drift that occurs close to the…

Irrotational and monochromatic surface gravity waves possess a mean Lagrangian drift which transports mass and enhances mixing in the upper ocean. In the ocean, where many surface waves are present, it is commonly assumed that the mean…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-20 Aidan Blaser , Luc Lenain , Nick Pizzo

Stokes drift has been as central to the history of wave theory as it has been distressingly absent from experiment. Neither wave tanks nor experiments in open bodies detect this without nearly canceling "eulerian flows." Acoustic waves have…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-12-15 Clifford Chafin

A nonlinear stability analysis entirely in the Lagrangian frame is conducted, revealing the fundamental role of the wave-induced mean flow in modifying further wave growth and providing new insight into the classic problem of wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-08-05 L. R. Seitz , Mara A. Freilich , Nick Pizzo

We study the effect of surface gravity waves on the motion of inertial particles in an incompressible fluid. Using the multiple-scale technique, we perform an analytical calculation which allows us to predict the dynamics of such particles;…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-01-25 G. Boffetta , M. Martins Afonso , A. Mazzino , M. Onorato , F. Santamaria

This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-08-20 Ilia M. Mindlin

The search for solutions to the theory of weakly non-linear internal gravity wave turbulence is an active research topic. It is notably stimulated by the fact that this regime could drive fine-scale ocean dynamics for which the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-01 Nicolas Lanchon , Samuel Boury , Pierre-Philippe Cortet

A localised overpressure translating at a uniform speed greater than a critical value acts at the interface between two deep fluid layers with different densities. We analyse the resulting wave patterns using an initial-value problem…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-13 Vinod Kumar Kadari , Nikhil Yewale , Palas Kumar Farsoiya , Y. S. Mayya , Ratul Dasgupta

In this work we study oceanic waves in a shallow water flow subject to strong wind forcing and rotation, and linearized around a inhomogeneous (non zonal) stationary profile. This extends the study \cite{CGPS}, where the profile was assumed…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2010-11-22 Isabelle Gallagher , Thierry Paul , Laure Saint-Raymond

In a recent paper, Hur & Wheeler [J. Differential Equations, 338:572-590, 2022] proved the existence of periodic steady water waves over an infinitely deep, two-dimensional and constant vorticity flow under the influence of gravity. These…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-07-02 Francisco Gonçalves
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