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Solitons are localized nonlinear wave packets that propagate without spreading because nonlinearity balances dispersion. Their robustness is well understood in effectively one-dimensional systems, but introducing additional spatial…

We describe and analyze the mean transport due to transient progressive waves, including breaking waves. The waves are packets and are generated with a boundary-forced air-water two-phase Navier Stokes solver. The analysis is done in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-10-02 Juan M. Restrepo , Jorge M. Ramirez

Mountain-generated inertia-gravity waves (IGWs) affect the dynamics of both the atmosphere and the ocean through the mean force they exert as they interact with the flow. A key to this interaction is the presence of critical-level…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-04-05 Jin-Han Xie , Jacques Vanneste

Waves excited on the surface of deep water decay in time and/or space due to the fluid viscosity, and the momentum associated with the wave motion is transferred from the waves to Eulerian slow currents by the action of the virtual wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-04-14 Vladimir M. Parfenyev , Sergey S. Vergeles

In this paper, we study solitary waves propagating along the surface of an infinitely deep body of water in two or three dimensions. The waves are acted upon by gravity and capillary effects are allowed --- but not required --- on the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-07-30 Robin Ming Chen , Samuel Walsh , Miles H. Wheeler

We consider incompressible flows between two transversely vibrating solid walls and construct an asymptotic expansion of solutions of the Navier-Stokes equations in the limit when both the amplitude of vibrations and the thickness of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2011-08-16 Konstantin Ilin , Andrey Morgulis

What do the ocean surface and a swaying flag have in common? Both are deformable surfaces exhibiting chaotic motion when exposed to turbulent flows. Whether such motion is primarily driven by flow turbulence or by nonlinear dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-25 Giulio Foggi Rota , Andrea Mazzino , Marco Edoardo Rosti

We investigate exact nonlinear waves on surfaces locally approximating the rotating sphere for two-dimensional inviscid incompressible flow. Our first system corresponds to a beta-plane approximation at the equator and the second to a gamma…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-20 Nick Pizzo , Rick Salmon

The generalized Langrangian mean theory provides exact equations for general wave-turbulence-mean flow interactions in three dimensions. For practical applications, these equations must be closed by specifying the wave forcing terms. Here…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-11-13 Fabrice Ardhuin , Nicolas Rascle , Kostas Belibassakis

In this paper we consider the dynamic pressure in a deep-water extreme Stokes wave. While the presence of stagnation points introduces a number of mathematical complications, maximum principles are applied to analyse the dynamic pressure in…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-11 Tony Lyons

Propagation of surface waves on a background shear flow with constant vorticity is studied and compared against the case when the background flow is uniform in depth. For a shear flow with the linear vertical profile, the dispersion…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-10-15 Philippe Maïssa , Germain Rousseaux , Yury Stepanyants

Periodic water waves generate Stokes drift as manifest from the orbits of Lagrangian particles not fully closing. Stokes drift can contribute to the transport of floating marine litter, including plastic. Previously, marine litter objects…

Turbulence follows a few well-known organizational principles, rooted in conservation laws. One such principle states that a system conserving two sign-definite invariants self-organizes into large-scale structures. Ordinary…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-02-10 Sébastien Gomé , Anna Frishman

We show that interfacial gravity waves comprising strong hydraulic jumps (bores) can be described by a two-layer hydrostatic shallow-water (SW) approximation without invoking additional front conditions. The theory is based on a new SW…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-04-25 Jānis Priede

Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…

Geophysics · Physics 2025-08-11 Alexey V. Slunyaev , Anna V. Kokorina

How does one derive models of dynamical feedback effects in multiscale, multiphysics systems such as wave mean flow interaction (WMFI)? We shall address this question for hybrid dynamical systems, whose motion can be expressed as the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-08-09 Darryl D. Holm , Ruiao Hu , Oliver D. Street

The Lagrangian formulation for the irrotational wave motion is straightforward and follows from a Lagrangian functional which is the difference between the kinetic and the potential energy of the system. In the case of fluid with constant…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-06-04 Conor T. Curtin , Rossen I. Ivanov

The vortex-wave system is a model for the evolution of 2D incompressible fluids in which the vorticity is split into a finite sum of Dirac masses plus an Lp part. Existence of a weak solution for this system was recently proved by Lopes…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2013-02-07 Gianluca Crippa , Milton C. Lopes Filho , Evelyne Miot , Helena J. Nussenzveig Lopes

Stratified flows forced by internal waves similar to those obtained in the Coriolis platform (LEGI, Grenoble, France) \cite{Savaro2020} are studied by pseudospectral triply-periodic simulations. The experimental forcing mechanism consisting…

We use an acoustic Lagrangian tracking technique, particularly adapted to measurements in open flows, and a versatile material particles generator (in the form of soap bubbles with adjustable size and density) to characterize Lagrangian…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-13 Nauman M. Qureshi , Mickael Bourgoin , Christophe Baudet , Alain Cartellier , Yves Gagne