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A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear shallow water and deep water models is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water-wave equations, we reduce the problem to a system of two equations on…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-10-09 David Lannes , Philippe Bonneton

Numerical methods are developed to simulate the wave propagation in heterogeneous 2D fluid / poroelastic media. Wave propagation is described by the usual acoustics equations (in the fluid medium) and by the low-frequency Biot's equations…

Classical Physics · Physics 2012-09-25 Guillaume Chiavassa , Bruno Lombard

The derivation of shallow water models from Navier-Stokes equations is revisited yielding a class of two-layer shallow water models.An improved velocity profile is proposed, based on the superposition of an ideal fluid and a viscous layer…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-06-11 François James , Pierre-Yves Lagrée , Hoang-Minh Le , Mathilde Legrand

Elastic wave propagation is studied in a heterogeneous 2-D medium consisting of an elastic matrix containing randomly distributed circular elastic inclusions. The aim of this study is to determine the effective wavenumbers when the incident…

Classical Physics · Physics 2016-06-29 Mathieu Chekroun , Loïc Le Marrec , Bruno Lombard , Joël Piraux

In this paper, we numerically study the wave turbulence of surface gravity waves in the framework of Euler equations of the free surface. The purpose is to understand the variation of the scaling of the spectra with wavenumber $k$ and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-06-22 Zhou Zhang , Yulin Pan

This paper provides a theoretical foundation for some common formulations of inverse problems in wave propagation, based on hyperbolic systems of linear integro-differential equations with bounded and measurable coefficients. The…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2015-06-12 Kirk D. Blazek , Christiaan C. Stolk , William W. Symes

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-06-26 Eytan Meisner , Mariano Galvagno , David Andrade , Dan Liberzon , Raphael Stuhlmeier

General equations describing shear displacements in incompressible hyperelastic materials, holding for an arbitrary form of strain energy density function, are presented and applied to the description of nonlinear Love-type waves…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2026-03-20 Shawn Samuel Carl McAdam , Samuel Opoku Agyemang , Alexei Cheviakov

In this paper, we present a new multiscale method which is capable of coupling atomistic and continuum domains for high frequency wave propagation analysis. The problem of non-physical wave reflection, which occurs due to the change in…

Computational Physics · Physics 2014-08-08 Amit K. Patra , S. Gopalakrishnan , Ranjan Ganguli

A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-09 Lili Fan , Ruonan Liu , Hongjun Gao

We propose a locally adaptive non-hydrostatic model and apply it to wave propagation generated by a moving bottom. This model is based on the non-hydrostatic extension of the shallow water equations (SWE) with a quadratic pressure relation,…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-05-26 Kemal Firdaus , Jörn Behrens

The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-30 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Santu Das , Michael H. Meylan

We derive the nonlinear fractional surface wave equation that governs compression waves at an interface that is coupled to a viscous bulk medium. The fractional character of the differential equation comes from the fact that the effective…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-29 Julian Kappler , Shamit Shrivastava , Matthias F. Schneider , Roland R. Netz

In this paper, we propose Fourier pseudospectral methods to solve the variable-order space fractional wave equation and develop an accelerated matrix-free approach for its effective implementation. In constant-order cases, our methods can…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2024-02-06 Yanzhi Zhang , Xiaofei Zhao , Shiping Zhou

This paper presents an extended version of the celebrated Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) system. This extension is based on the well-known Bona-Smith-Nwogu trick which aims to improve the linear dispersion properties. We show that in the fully…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Didier Clamond , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

Theoretical studies on linear shear instabilities often use simple velocity and density profiles (e.g. constant, piecewise) for obtaining good qualitative and quantitative predictions of the initial disturbances. Furthermore, such simple…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-28 Divyanshu Bhardwaj , Anirban Guha

We propose a new compressive imaging method for reconstructing 2D or 3D objects from their scattered wave-field measurements. Our method relies on a novel, nonlinear measurement model that can account for the multiple scattering phenomenon,…

Computer Vision and Pattern Recognition · Computer Science 2016-10-07 Hsiou-Yuan Liu , Ulugbek S. Kamilov , Dehong Liu , Hassan Mansour , Petros T. Boufounos

The classical equations of irrotational water waves have recently been reformulated as a system of two equations, one of which is an explicit non-local equation for the wave height and for the velocity potential evaluated on the free…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2011-08-01 Anthony C. L Ashton , A. S. Fokas

Interactions between an evolving solid and inviscid flow can result in substantial computational complexity, particularly in circumstances involving varied boundary conditions between the solid and fluid phases. Examples of such…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-09-30 Emma M. Schmidt , J. Matt Quinlan , Brandon Runnels

In the present study a mathematical model of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction with the effect of Earth's rotation is derived by following the formal asymptotic procedures. Such a model equation is analogous to…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2019-05-01 Guilong Gui , Yue Liu , Junwei Sun