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In the last fifteen years, a great progress has been made in the understanding of the nonlinear resonance dynamics of water waves. Notions of scale- and angle-resonances have been introduced, new type of energy cascade due to nonlinear…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2009-10-30 Elena Kartashova

This paper describes a method for deriving approximate equations for irrotational water waves. The method is based on a 'relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many variables as possible. This formulation is…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

Waves in excitable media can be treated by a simple geometric theory. The propagation velocity is assumed known and evolution of wave fronts is determined by elementary physical principles (Fermat's principle, Huygens' principle). Based on…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2007-05-23 Kristof Kaly-Kullai

A number of important results of studying large deformations of hyper-elastic shells are obtained using discrete methods of mathematical physics. In the present paper, using the variational method for solving nonlinear boundary problems of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2015-06-26 V. A. Trotsenko

In the linear approximation, we study a one-dimensional problem of the reflectionless wave propagation on a surface of a shallow duct with the spatially varying water depth, duct width, and current. We show that both global and bounded…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-12-08 Semyon Churilov , Yury Stepanyants

We study here the propagation of long waves in the presence of vorticity. In the irrotational framework, the Green-Naghdi equations (also called Serre or fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations) are the standard model for the propagation of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-12-14 David Lannes , Fabien Marche

In this paper, we develop a computational multiscale to solve the parabolic wave approximation with heterogeneous and variable media. Parabolic wave approximation is a technique to approximate the full wave equation. One benefit of the…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2021-04-07 Eric Chung , Yalchin Efendiev , Sai-Mang Pun , Zecheng Zhang

We investigate exact nonlinear waves on surfaces locally approximating the rotating sphere for two-dimensional inviscid incompressible flow. Our first system corresponds to a beta-plane approximation at the equator and the second to a gamma…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-20 Nick Pizzo , Rick Salmon

Effective field theory descriptions of surface waves on flowing fluids have tended to assume that the flow is irrotational, but this assumption is often impractical due to boundary layer friction and flow recirculation. Here we develop an…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2024-09-26 Alessia Biondi , Scott Robertson , Germain Rousseaux

The nonlinear Fourier transform, which is also known as the forward scattering transform, decomposes a periodic signal into nonlinearly interacting waves. In contrast to the common Fourier transform, these waves no longer have to be…

Information Theory · Computer Science 2015-11-24 Sander Wahls , H. Vincent Poor

The internal-wave (IW) continuum of a regional ocean model is studied in terms of the vertical spectral kinetic-energy (KE) fluxes and transfers at high vertical wavenumbers. Previous work has shown that this model permits a partial…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-02-06 Joseph Skitka , Brian K. Arbic , Ritabrata Thakur , Dimitris Menemenlis , William R. Peltier , Yulin Pan , Kayhan Momeni , Yuchen Ma

The present article is the third part of a series of papers devoted to the shallow water wave modelling. In this part, we investigate the derivation of some long wave models on a deformed sphere. We propose first a suitable for our purposes…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova

The dynamics of surface waves traveling along the boundary of a liquid medium are changed by the presence of floating plates and membranes, contributing to a number of important phenomena in a wide range of applications. Mathematically, if…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-10-28 Travis Askham , Tristan Goodwill , Jeremy G Hoskins , Peter Nekrasov , Manas Rachh

We study dispersion properties of linear surface gravity waves propagating in an arbitrary direction atop a current profile of depth-varying magnitude using a piecewise linear approximation, and develop a robust numerical framework for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen

The time evolution emanating from "internal dam-break" initial conditions is studied for a class of models of stratified Euler fluids in configurations close to two-homogeneous layers separated by a thin diffused interface. Direct numerical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-03-28 Shengqian Chen

We describe a proof-of-concept development and application of a phase averaging technique to the nonlinear rotating shallow water equations on the sphere, discretised using compatible finite element methods. Phase averaging consists of…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-05-15 Hiroe Yamazaki , Colin J Cotter , Beth Wingate

This paper presents the Smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) model to examine the propagation of a regular and irregular waves. The SPH method is a grid-less Lagrangian approach which is capable of good accuracy in tracking large…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 D. De Padova , R. A. Dalrymple , M. Mossa , A. F. Petrillo

We present a numerical study of essentially nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves on deep water with constant vorticity using governing equations in conformal coordinates. The dispersion relation of surface gravity waves on shear flow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-01 A. S. Dosaev , M. I. Shishina , Yu. I. Troitskaya

The propagation of water waves of finite depth and flat bottom is studied in the case when the depth is not small in comparison to the wavelength. This propagation regime is complementary to the long-wave regime described by the famous KdV…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2024-05-31 Rossen I. Ivanov

A computational fluid model is developed to study waves and instabilities. A new technique involving initial perturbations in configuration space have been implemented to excite the plasma waves; i.e. the perturbations acting similar to a…

Plasma Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 H. Hakimi Pajouh , M. R. Rouhani , H. Abbasi , F. Kazeminejad , S. Rouhani
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