Related papers: Full Euler equations for waves generated by vertic…
We use molecular dynamics simulations to study the formation of surface waves in vertically vibrated granular material. We find that horizontal movements of particles, which are essential for the formation of the waves, consist of two…
The dynamics of solitary gravity-capillary water waves propagating on the surface of a three-dimensional fluid domain is studied numerically. In order to accurately compute complex time dependent solutions, we simplify the full potential…
Given a distribution of earthquake-induced seafloor elevations, we present a method to compute the probability of the resulting tsunamis reaching a certain size on shore. Instead of sampling, the proposed method relies on optimization to…
We explore the propagation and transformation of electromagnetic waves through spatially homogeneous yet smoothly time-dependent media within the framework of classical electrodynamics. By modelling the smooth transition, occurring during a…
Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the…
We present the derivation of generic equations describing the long gravity waves in incompressible fluid with decaying effect. We show that in this theory the only restriction to the surface deviation is connected with the stability…
Considered here are Boussinesq systems of equations of surface water wave theory over a variable bottom. A simplified such Boussinesq system is derived and solved numerically by the standard Galerkin-finite element method. We study by…
In order to improve the frequency dispersion effects of irrotational shallow water models in coastal oceanography, several full dispersion versions of classical models were formally derived in the literature. The idea, coming from G.…
Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…
A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…
To analyze seismic wave propagation in geological structures, it is possible to consider various numerical approaches: the finite difference method, the spectral element method, the boundary element method, the finite element method, the…
We study the propagation and scattering of electromagnetic waves by random arrays of dipolar cylinders in a uniform medium. A set of self-consistent equations, incorporating all orders of multiple scattering of the electromagnetic waves, is…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
We introduce a new model equation for Stokes gravity waves based on conformal transformations of Euler's equations. The local version of the model equation is relevant for dynamics of shallow water waves. It allows us to characterize the…
We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and…
The tidal effects generated by a nonlinear gravitational wave are investigated in double-null v - u coordinates, as an exact solution of Einstein's field equations. The components $\xi^{v}$ and $\xi^{u}$ of the separation vector behave as…
A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…
The Whitham equation is a nonlocal, nonlinear partial differential equation that models the temporal evolution of spatial profiles of surface displacement of water waves. However, many laboratory and field measurements record time series at…
The purpose of this article is numerical verification of the theory of weak turbulence. We performed numerical simulation of an ensemble of nonlinearly interacting free gravity waves (swell) by two different methods: solution of primordial…
We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…