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Tsunami waves induced by landslides are a threat to human activities and safety along coastal areas. In this paper, we characterize experimentally the waves generated by the gravity-driven collapse of a dry granular column into water. Three…
Waves excited on the surface of deep water decay in time and/or space due to the fluid viscosity, and the momentum associated with the wave motion is transferred from the waves to Eulerian slow currents by the action of the virtual wave…
Elastic waves of short wavelength propagating through the upper layer of the Earth appear to move faster at large separations of source and receiver than at short separations. This scale dependent velocity is a manifestation of Fermat's…
This paper is devoted to the stabilization of the incompressible Euler equation with free surface. We study the damping of two-dimensional gravity waves by an absorbing beach where the water-wave energy is dissipated by using the variations…
The main reason for the generation of tsunamis is the deformation of the bottom of the ocean caused by an underwater earthquake. Usually, only the vertical bottom motion is taken into account while the horizontal co-seismic displacements…
We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…
In the present study a mathematical model of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction with the effect of Earth's rotation is derived by following the formal asymptotic procedures. Such a model equation is analogous to…
We consider Euler's equations for free surface waves traveling on a body of density stratified water in the scenario when gravity and surface tension act as restoring forces. The flow is continuously stratified, and the water layer is…
In this paper, we propose a unified and high order accurate fully-discrete one-step ADER Discontinuous Galerkin method for the simulation of linear seismic waves in the sea bottom that are generated by the propagation of free surface water…
Due to the non-linearity of Hertzian contacts, the speed of sound $c$ in granular matter is expected to increase with pressure as $P^{1/6}$. A static layer of grains under gravity is thus stratified so that bulk waves are refracted toward…
Modern day studies of wind-driven sea waves are usually focused on wind forcing rather than on the effect of resonant nonlinear wave interactions. The authors assume that these effects are dominating and propose a simple relationship…
We investigate the potential and limitations of the wave generation by disturbances moving at the bottom. More precisely, we assume that the wavemaker is composed of an underwater object of a given shape which can be displaced according to…
Processes of propagation and interaction of nonlinear gravity-capillary waves on the free surface of a deep non-conducting liquid with high dielectric constant under the action of a tangential electric field are numerically simulated. The…
In this article, we present a predictive model for the amplitude of impulse waves generated by the collapse of a granular column into a water layer. The model, which combines the spreading dynamics of the grains and the wave hydrodynamics…
We consider the problem of reconstructing the seabed topography from observations of surface gravity waves. We formulate the problem as a classical inverse scattering problem using the mild-slope equation, and analyze the topographic…
The problem of submarine sediment slide which generates the surface water waves is considered. To simulate numerically the landslide motion it is used the method which permits to take into account detailed rheological properties of slide…
Direct numerical simulations of turbulent flow in a channel with one rigid and one viscoelastic wall are performed. An Eulerian-Eulerian model is adopted with a level-set approach to identify the fluid-compliant material interface. Focus is…
Experimental wave generation in channels is usually achieved through wavemakers (moving paddles) acting on the surface of the water. Although practical for engineering purposes, wavemakers have issues: they perform poorly in the generation…
A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear shallow water and deep water models is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water-wave equations, we reduce the problem to a system of two equations on…
The irreducible representations of the extended Galilean group are used to derive the symmetric and asymmetric wave equations. It is shown that among these equations only a new asymmetric wave equation is fundamental. By being fundamental…