Related papers: Nonlinear Wave Transformation over Steep Breakwate…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is…
The analysis of nonlinear wave equations has experienced a dramatic growth in the last ten years or so. The key factor in this has been the transition from linear analysis, first to the study of bilinear and multilinear wave interactions,…
Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…
Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…
Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…
A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…
By numerical simulation of exact equations of motion (in terms of conformal variables) for planar non-stationary potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over a strongly non-uniform bottom profile, the effect of nonlinear…
The mild-slope equation and its various modifications aim to model, with varying degrees of success, linear water wave propagation over sloping or undulating seabed topography. However, despite multiple modifications and attempted…
Direct phase-resolved simulations are performed to investigate the propagation and scattering of nonlinear ocean waves in fragmented sea ice. The numerical model solves the full time-dependent equations for nonlinear potential flow coupled…
It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…
We investigate how the presence of a vertically sheared current affects wave statistics, including the probability of rogue waves, and apply it to a real-world case using measured spectral and shear current data from the Mouth of the…
The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…
In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…
We study free surface water waves in a 2-D symmetric triangular channel with sides that have a 45o slope. We develop models for small amplitude nonlinear waves, extending earlier studies that have considered the linearized problem. We see…
We review the theory of wave interaction in finite and infinite depth. Both of these strands of water-wave research begin with the deterministic governing equations for water waves, from which simplified equations can be derived to model…