Related papers: Nonlinear Wave Transformation over Steep Breakwate…
In order to understand and predict coastal flooding processes in rocky environments, it is necessary to take into account bottom roughness, which plays a key role in wave transformation processes and in general coastal dynamics. The present…
Physics of nonlinear waves on variable backgrounds and the relevant mathematical analysis continues to be the challenging aspect of the study. In this work, we consider a (3+1)-dimensional nonlinear model describing the dynamics of {water…
We investigate the interaction of waves with surface flows by considering the full set of conserved quantities, subtle but important surface elevation changes induced by wave packets and by directly considering the necessary forces to…
This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem…
The basic strategy underlying models of spontaneous wave function collapse (collapse models) is to modify the Schroedinger equation by including nonlinear stochastic terms, which tend to localize wave functions in space in a dynamical…
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
By performing two parallel numerical experiments -- solving the dynamical Hamiltonian equations and solving the Hasselmann kinetic equation -- we examined the applicability of the theory of weak turbulence to the description of the time…
Nonlinear acoustic evolution is often discussed in the context of wave-steepening that leads to shock formation, and is of special interest in applications where the shock continues to strengthen due to a narrowing of its channel or the…
Instead of taking the usual passive view for warning of near shore surging waves including extreme waves like tsunamis, we aim to study the possibility of intervening and controlling nonlinear surface waves through the feedback boundary…
We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are…
Although extreme or freak waves are repeatedly measured in the oceans, their origin is largely unknown. The interaction of different water waves is seen as one reason for their emergence. One way to consider nonlinear waves in deep water is…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
We study the stability of Stokes waves on a free surface of an ideal fluid of infinite depth. For small steepness the modulational instability dominates the dynamics, but its growth rate is vastly surpassed for steeper waves by an…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation with repulsive (defocusing) nonlinearity is considered. As an example, a system with a spatially varying coefficient of the nonlinear term is studied. The nonlinearity is chosen to be repelling except on a…
We analyze the linear stability of monoclinal traveling waves on a constant incline, which connect uniform flowing regions of differing depths. The classical shallow-water equations are employed, subject to a general resistive drag term.…
We report on the formation of a dispersive shock wave in a nonlinear optical medium. We monitor the evolution of the shock by tuning the incoming beam power. The experimental observations for the position and intensity of the solitonic edge…