Related papers: The influence of spectral bandwidth and shape on d…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…
The criterion for the initiation of breaking demonstrated numerically by Barthelemy et al. (2015) has been investigated in the laboratory for unidirectional wave groups in deep-water and extended to include conditions of moderate wind…
The process of breaking in surface gravity waves can be characterized by two distinct stages. Breaking onset, defined as the first visible surface manifestation of breaking, is preceded by breaking inception, which is characterized by the…
We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. This study focuses on domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deep to…
Using the same measurement techniques as those of Saket et al. (2017), we have investigated the breaking threshold proposed by Barthelemy et al. (arXiv:1508.06002v1, 2015b) but for different classes of unforced unidirectional wave groups in…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
Accurate prediction of the onset and strength of breaking surface gravity waves is a long-standing problem of significant theoretical and applied interest. Recently, Barth\'el\'emy et al (https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93) examined the…
Many wind wave spectrum models provide excellent wave height prediction given the input of wind speed and wave age. Their quantification of the surface roughness, on the other hand, varies considerably. The ocean surface roughness is…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is…
Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…
A spectrogram of a ship wake is a heat map that visualises the time-dependent frequency spectrum of surface height measurements taken at a single point as the ship travels by. Spectrograms are easy to compute and, if properly interpreted,…
The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…
The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…
Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…
New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent…
The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
The breaking of surface gravity waves is a key process contributing to air-sea fluxes and turbulent ocean mixing. The highly nonlinear nature of wave breaking, combined with the challenges of observing this process in a laboratory or field…
Breaking surface waves generate drops of a broad range of sizes that have a significant influence on regional and global climates, as well as the identification of ship movements. Characterizing these phenomena requires a fundamental…